The Mysterious Case of the Hitler Letters

Last month I received an extraordinary long distance call from a man in another state who spoke in a rich German accent and identified himself, among other things, as a former member of the Hitler Youth! My caller said he had obtained from a relative in Germany, five handwritten letters from Hitler to three separate very prominent Nazis... and Eva Braun! (At this point I need to explain: Because of my personal opinion expressed below, I'm going to give my call the name "Rudolf", not his real name, and will refrain from identifying the contents of the letters, which were quite 'historic' in nature. (You'll see why below.) Naturally I was thrilled and flattered and I asked Rudolf to mail me copies of the letters, which he did.

I am NOT a handwriting expert. But like many of you, I have Charles Hamilton's book "Leaders and Personalities of the Third Reich" which contains numerous examples of Hitler's handwriting, and particularly his signature which degenerated into a downward illegible spiral as his end approached. I also have many photos in other books of various documents Hitler signed.Oh, how I wanted those letters to be real! But, in my opinion, they are not. I approached this project with what I believe to be a completely open mind. I studied the letters and the comparisons for a number of hours, then I invited a local well—known collector friend to study them with me, and with magnifying glass in hand we carefully examined ‘the letters (remember, these were photocopies) letter by letter, word by word, signature by signature. My friend's verdict agreed with mine. I have written Rudolf and told him my opinion (which, of course, may not be correct... and I've told him that also). I have suggested who else he should contact; he believes there are authorities in Germany who can help. What is wrong with the letters?

Well, first of all, they mentioned very well-known events which would have made them, if they were real, of the highest value. Frankly, the odds of 4 or 5 historic letters being assembled in one place (remember they were allegedly written to different people over several years) is very great. Possible, but not too likely. And, alas, the handwriting and signatures just didn't match what we had with which to compare them. Of course, there exists the possibility, as I told Rudolf that I am dead wrong about the handwriting.

The purpose of this article is not to castigate Rudolf. Frankly, I want to see anything a collector thinks is real. Maybe it is! And I happen to believe, after two long distance phone talks with Rudolf, that he is telling the truth. I am convinced he was a member of the Hitler Youth. His description of himself as a terrified 16 year old boy with a panzerfaust on his shoulder, being
ordered in April of 1945 by a kind—hearted leader to "drop it and run like hell for home" through both Nazi and French lines, is horrifyingly real. No, and I don't want to further argue the authenticity of the letters. If they are real, I've passed up the most important papers of the Third Reich I'll ever see.

The purpose of this article is to point out that, as we all know, forgeries and fakes of many Third Reich items are circling the globe. If you haven't seen one, you will; if you haven't bought one, you could. First, how can we identify them, and second, what can we do about them? The first answer is very difficult. All of us are fed up with the pseudo- know—it-alls who pick up a Knight's Cross and throw it back down on a table at a show with the comment "It's a fake!" Well, is it? And who says it is? Is he qualified? Unless we are experts, when asked an opinion, I believe we should state that the opinion we give is a qualified one, is only our opinion, and is based only on our own personal research and experience. Meanwhile, we can arm ourselves with knowledge. We are not as well—read as we should be. If we are in the 'German militaria' hobby we should read every history book we can. I am constantly appalled by the ’gun show mentality' of the 'collector' who will tell you that World War II started with 'the assassination or Rohm or that D—Day was December 7, l941 . In addition to the history books we can read and study the authoritative books and articles written by people like John Angolia, Hugh Page Taylor, Roger Bender, Tom Johnson and many others, who know what they are writing about. Also, we can quit trying to get rich quick. My mother told me there was no free lunch. In my rapidly advancing older age I still have trouble believing it. Chances are slim of my finding a Feldherrnhalle dagger in the woodwork for $50, or Hitler's letters of the highest importance that are mysteriously just now surfacing 43 years later. Perhaps the most apropos advice of all is this: It's in Latin incidentally, not German. "caveat emptor".

Mickey Huffman is a contributor to DG, his opinions and conclusions are his own. A collector for 10 years, and a long—time student of WWII, he is also president of the North Texas Militaria Collectors Association.

* * *

I'll jump in and add some fuel to the fire with these comments about Mickey's article. I haven't seen the letters Mickey talks about so I can't form any opinion of them. I have however, heard that there have been quite a few rare documents and letters recently stolen from the Berlin Document Center and that many would be just the type of thing Mickey describes. Also, I've heard through the grapevine, that the FBI has recently visited and confiscated some of these documents and letters from dealers right here in the U.S.. If anyone would have a collection like Mickey describes it would be the Berlin Document Center. On the other hand... Hitler was not fond of writing. He dictated almost everything, even ’Mein Kampf’ when he was in prison. The chances of finding hand written letters by him are extremely remote to say the least. So, I would say Mickey's decision was probably the correct one. Bob Treend, 1988

Mickey Huffman, "The Mysterious Case of the Hitler Letters", Der Gauleiter, 1988

Buying Militaria With Paypal

The other day I was talking with a collector about the hobby and he told me about a problem he had buying an item. He brought it from a dealer's list on the internet and paid for the piece with Paypal. After receiving the piece he realized it was a fake. After trying to get the dealer to refund his money several times with no success, he filed a complaint with Paypal. He went through the lengthly "resolution" process expalining the the item was not as described and saying he wanted to return it and get a refund. After a couple of weeks he finally received the following from Paypal.

"Our investigation into your claim is complete. As stated in our User Agreement, the claims process only applies to the shipment of goods. It does not apply to complaints about the attributes or quality of goods received. Therefore, we are unable to reverse this transaction or issue a refund."

So much for being protected by Paypal. Just thought you should know.

germanmilitariacollectibles.com

Think You're Ready To Start Collecting?

If you're new to collecting Third Reich Militaria here is a little quiz that may help you decide if you're really ready to start spending money. Below are pictures of 12 items. All of them are popular collectibles and are frequently encountered on dealer web sites, gun shows, etc... From just these pictures you should be able to tell if the item is an original or a fake. Make a list with your answers and you can check it against the correct answers at the bottom of this article. Good luck (...and it really shouldn't be luck!)

Here is the answer to the quiz. The following are Original: 1,2,3,4,5,12. And the Fakes are: 6,7,8,9,10,11. If you got all 12 correct then go ahead and start collecting. If you got 11 right, collect but be careful. If you got 10 right you need more study and if you got 9 or less right you're a prime candidate to get ripped off! This little quiz was all in fun, but the results should be take seriously. Afterall, mistakes here are free but in the marketplace they can cost you money.

germanmilitariacollectibles.com

Collector Basics - Identification Errors

Collectors of Nazi war relics are confronted with some improper identification and wrong interpretation of some abbreviations used in identification. Most of these mistakes are to be found on collector's sale lists, however, they may also be found in books and magazine articles, some used as identification reference. Some of these mistakes are widely used and accepted as correct, here is a review of some of the more common ones.

All that's black is not SS. With. So many novice collcetors are seeking SS items, a lot of Nazi items, that are black, are being listed or called SS. Other Nazi organizations such as the Luftwaffe, Army, S.A., R.A.D., and even railway workers had black uniforms or insignia. The Luftwaffe construction troops, R.A.D. and S.A. had black collar tabs, the S.A. tabs being very similar if not exactly like SS tabs. Railway workers had a pair of black coveralls that some collectors believe to be SS panzer, sometimes markings will help identify these. The TENO (Technische Nothilfe), and the Grossdeutschland sleevebands have been called SS. The TENO is an organization of specialists used to perform technical maintenance, not exactly SS. Hitler's Second Army" by Alfred Vagts, is a good source of reference on the TENO. Grossdeutschland was an elite German Army division. Some of the U.S. Government publications give information on this unit. Do not confuse the Army Grossdeutschland sleeveband with the SS Deutschland sleeveband.

Tan is another color that is often misrepresented. Many tan items including tunics, caps and insignia are listed as Afrika Korps items, perhaps they are but tan items were used by the Wehrmacht in Italy, Sicily, Greece and other countries and islands in the Mediterranean Sea area. TM-E 30—451, "Handbook on German Military Forces", lists these tan items as tropical, possibly they are from the Afrika Korps but most likly from elsewhere. Particularly noticeable on sale lists is the use of the term Wehrmacht when listing a German Army item. TM-E 30-451, September, 1943, page l6, states the Wehrmacht or "Armed Forces" was composed of the Army (Herr), the Air Force (Luftwaffe) and the Navy (Kriegsmarine). There were two classes of soldiers in the Wehrmacht or Armed Forces, officers (second lieutenant and higher) and enlisted men (private through sergeant major). Service or peaked caps came with two types of chin straps, silver cord for officers and black leather for enlisted men. there was no difference in the service cap for privates and that for non-conmissioned officers. Refer to EM-E 30-451. Also this applies to the Army breast eagle and swastika insignia, no difference between the eagle for a private and one for an N.C.O.. The Waffenfarbe or piping color of pink is referred to as panzer most of the time, however, plate VI, TM-E 30—451, March 1945, lists the following units as using pink piping: panzer regiments, tank destroyer battalions, mobile battalions, armored reconnaissance battalions (including motorcycle battalions), heavy tank destroyer battalions (assault gun battalions), armored train personnel and motor maintenance troops.

One of the most common mistakes and widely accepted errors by many collectors is the identification of the letters N.S.B.O. This abbreviation is so widely mistaken that some of the new reference materials mistakenly list them as a National Farmers Organization. The intelligence book "German Military Abbreviations" gives the following translation: N.S.B.O. Nationalsozialistische Betriebszellenorganisation. National Socialist Organization of Cells in Industry and Commerce. German industry was organized in cells under the N.S.B.O. according to "Hitler‘s Second Army" by Alfred Vagts. This book covers not only the N.S.B.O. but other Nazi organizations as well.

In collecting German war relics one should get a German-English dictionary and seek the best of reference materials, then you are on the way to a more accurate identification.

Jack Britton, "Identification Errors", Das Hakenkreuz, 1968

Collectors Beware !

Usaully I don't post things from our Newsletters or Forum here in the Blog, but I feel it's important that the word get out to as many collectors as possible.

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Newsletter from Sept. 27, 2009

Is there ever one honest dealer in Eastern Europe? God knows we have our share of crooks in the U.S., but we do have "some" honest guys too. It has become so bad that every time I see a new membership come in from that part of the world I cringe. I know that odds are I'm in for problems. Almost without exception after signing up they start to flood our site with fakes. And, almost without exception, when I delete the ads and tell them not to post fakes, I get a return email saying they didn't know they were fake or arguing that their stuff is real or calling me "filthy swine" or some other colorful moniker. If I'm lucky they just keep quiet and don't post any more. If they do, then I refund their membership and ask them to go elsewhere. Then...I get the nasty email...

I tell you this not because I want to whine about my problems, I can handle it, but because I think you should all know... and I figure many of you already do. I hate to say it, but I would suggest that you don't even consider dealing with anyone from there unless you know them well. I would not even respond to ads from anyone in Eastern Europe. You're just asking for grief.

Now, all you Eastern Europeans who want to send me a nasty-gram can do so at:

info@germanmilitariacollectibles.com

I have a "Deleted" file all ready for it.

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The following day in our Forum

Last evening I send out a newsletter and addressed the problem of Eastern European militaria dealers and their fakes. I fully expected to get a response to this and was not disappointed. It's no surprise that many of you agree with my assessment of them and I have reprinted most of these below. I left the author's name off because I didn't get their permission to use it. I also (not surprisingly) received some emails from Eastern Europe. Amazingly, some collectors there actually agreed with me. I feel bad for the few good guys over there, they're taking the consequences of the actions of others. They're like innocent bystanders... and we all know what happens to innocent bystanders. It's unfortunate that to protect ourselves from some we have to avoid all.

Of all the responses I received the standout was from Matjaz Fritz. (I didn't even realize he was still on the mailing list) I'm sure many of you know who he is, he's been a subject in this forum and every other militaria forum because of his dishonest dealings. I wish I could reprint his email here but it is so full of curses and obsenities that I can't do it. I couldn't even figure a way to edit it, it's that nasty. I'll just say that his email is an insight into his personality showing a lot of anger, a hatred for Americans and contempt for all of us. You would have to be nuts to get involved with this guy.

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Here's some of the responses I received.

One of the reasons why I gave up collecting militaria was because of all the fakes. Even some "reputable" sellers have told me the items I bought from them are fakes when I've tried to sell them back to them a few years later. I came to the conclusion that I was wasting my money. The suspicion is so great that every item must be viewed as a fake until proven otherwise. Proof is an expensive and difficult thing to maintain. I know that around 95% of my militaria is genuine and I know exactly which items, but I am sure if I ever tried to sell them I would virtually have to give them away.

Indian artefact collectors in the US have a good saying: ''If you found it yourself then it is real, if you bought it from somebody else then chances are it is fake.''

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It's true.

I moderate at the forums, and can tell you, alot of problems due come out of Eastern Europe. We have an idea of who's who, but even tracking their Internet Protocal addresses can be tricky because they use proxy software, which hides, masks and changes their IP address, making tracking them that much more difficult. What i've found to be useful is communication between forum staff. I keep in contact a few others whom I trust and respect. Some of the forums I won't even waste my time with since they themselves have a long history of being involved with known fakes, with changing names, and committing otherwise moreally reprehensible acts, and often illegal acts. Those people from those forums are shunned, and that's just the way it is.

Tracking the bad guys from Eastern Europe is tough..but word gets around. I limit my business, and won't buy from anyone over there unless it's someone I know. I am even reluctant to sell to buyers in the East, since there is little recourse for theft, lost mail, and liars. I've heard of some guys saying they never received an item, only to demand a refund, and then it turns out, they've had the item all along. Damn crooks. Not all, but enough to give Eastern Europeans a bad name and turn off a lot of collectors.

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Yes, there're some honest dealer in Eastern Europe , but you may never encounter him because of your generalizing a problem (which does exist).
This makes me think back to the mid-70s when in my country someone rumored that all the crap came from the States. When I became acquainted with the phoneys then being marketed in the USA and started having contacts with US collectors, I quickly realized that those rumors were bullshit most of the times.
I have dealt with people from Eastern Europe and got what they offered: genuine pices were genuine pieces, repros were repros. Either they like me or they do not like Americans or your website drew the unwanted attention of the most unscrupolous ones (who certainly exist).
If there are crooks at West and at East , you may consider someone in the middle as well. What about Germans? ... I strongly discourage people form having contacts with the Krauts, they are pretty unreliable even in other spheres of commerce (I speak also from my 15-year professional experience with Germans) . Actually I did meet some really nice German people, they were the --- on vacation in this country .
I have known you since the good old days of Der Gauleiter and appreciate the even-mindedness and the normality of your site. Please keep it that way: never has prejudice elevated people.

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My name is ---- from Bucharest, Romania (Eastern Europe you may say). I am a guest of your site for quite some time. I hope my message finds you well.

I completely agree with your comments towards incoming fakes, irrespective where they are coming from. However, kindly note that such labeling will considerably diminish any credibility for an Eastern European like myself trying to make a good deal by courtesy of your website.

Therefore, please (i) do not advice your honest fellow Americans or any other nationality by all means not to respond to anyone from Eastern Europe, and (ii) take precautionary actions on a case by case basis.

We all, Eastern Europeans included, use your site because (i) it provides the degree of a guarantee for authenticity we are comfortable with, and most importantly (ii) we DO NOT KNOW each other. Otherwise, it would have been no need for your web platform.

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Dear Sir,
The tone of your letter is somewhat insulting. Obviously you , as so many Americans, have little or no knowledge of Finnish military history nor European political history . I suggest you google the name Siilasvuo Hjalmar or the Finnish Winter War for an easy start.


Your odds are not for problems on my part..... you just lost an opportunity.

(I'm still trying to figure out what Finnish military history has to do with this... B.T.)


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They have just about ruined the hobby. I don't see many of the younger
people at shows. The dealers charge prices that are way beyond the
reach of the Middle class. Just look at what ----
charges! The fakes are a BIG turn off to collectors. Collectors are
afraid to buy anything. Is it real or not? Even the big dealers get
caught selling fakes. I could tell you horror stories. I have been
collecting for years and am now getting out of the hobby. Want to buy
a Nazi helmet?

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Thanks for the info. Your sentiments about the eastern europeans is almost unanimous. I get that feeling all the time i see them with two posts and trying to sell a bunch of fakes. Sorry for that 1% of people from there that are actually good guys but we do not have a way to distinguish them. Cheers

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Is see Pawel Norwak from Poland joined the site again, his membership did not survive a full day. Hopefully he will decide to save money and sell only on those great FREE! sites.

This guy has been characterized as being intelligent and clever. I doubt that he is either.

After all if you do a Google search of his name, and add various other key words like Crook, Thief, Scam, Scum, Rip Off, Fraud, etc. you get page upon page of results from sites all over the world.

The amazing thing is that there was not one posting by him that competently refuted any of the complaints generated against him. There were a couple of half hearted statements along the lines of "I am honest, send your money soon."

The internet is forever. He cannot escape the statements about him and the scams he is trying to put over on people.

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Matjaz Fritz is a problem everywhere. As you know, he's been booted from every majory forum.
You'll like this one. Fritz contacted me about 2 years ago. He sent me photos of items which he claimed to own. I know for a fact these are not his items. It came up 4 years ago, and he got called on it. Even after that, he still trys to claim they are his items. Anyway, he sends me these photos, then asks me to send him photos of my stuff. Here's why: Fritz is known to steal photos. If you send him a photo of say an Eikchorn Prinz Eugen, he takes the photo, then trys to sell the item in Eastern Europe, where not many of us are involved. He either claims he owns the item and trys to sell it over there, or he assumes your identitiy and trys to sell the item, claiming to be you. He requests cash or a paypal, then never sends the item...since he doesn't have it. Meanwhile, you start to get contacted on the forums via PM or via email, from angry people asking why you havn't sent the Prinz Eugen sword they paid you for. We know this has happened as we did some detective work and have been in contact with buyers in Eastern Europe, Latvia, Lithuania, Czech Repubic, and so on, and they confirmed they had been ripped off by Fritz, and he used this meathod. We had posted this in the fourms about 1.5 years ago.

He's hard to track as are others like him because they've gotten wise and now use masking software. I have software which uses fake Internet Protocal addresses to mask the real IP addy. The software basically randomely picks up an IP address from somewhere in the world, than latches onto it, and you surf, post, etc., under that IP addy, even though it's not yours. There's a variety of programs out there, some of which are free, that use this proxy software. This makes it hard to track some people. Like you said, these fools have the same tennor in their posts, and it's easy enough to figure out who they are. Also, I don't know if you recall a few years back, when Fritz first popped up, he began posting a bunch of items, he claimed to own. Immediately we were all suspicious. Well, it turns out some of the items belong to someone else and lifted the images from their web site.

He's a moron. But there's alot of guys out there like him. I'll run this by Ade, and if he gives me the green light, we'll post the message. It's likely it will require some degree of editing, as it's pretty offensive.

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Bob, No truer words were ever written!

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I would not want your babysitting job for Bill Gates money! I don't know how you do it. I have been collecting for 30 years and I have over 50 different unique collections, 3rd Reich is just one of them and I have 2000 plus items in that collection. It is a well known fact among all my collecting pals that WWII German stuff is by far the most treacherous gear to collect. A well known author on the subject once shared an email exchange with me after we battled for an item on Ebay back in 99 when you could find good treasures there. He told me that over 70% of all 3rd Reich collectibles are post war fakes, repros, replicas, bastards, marriages, touch ups and restorations. I started collecting fakes and repros back then to help educate myself and others. I have hundreds of items and many of them could fool even seasoned collectors.

You are so right about East European stuff. I can't imagine the shenanigans you've got to deal with. You sincerely deserve an award for your endless babysitting and your positive attitude whilst doing so remains upbeat, polite and yet firm with a great degree of patience. You're doing a fine job and the site is one of the best sources for Militaria and research material pertaining to it. I know that bright collectors and honest ones would agree. That's all that matters. Keep up the good work

Instant Information, The Internet As Your Tool

I believe that one of the biggest issues regarding collecting, is having accurate knowledge. This allows collecting to be a satisfying and rewarding enterprise.

Before the internet existed, accurate specialized knowledge of German collectible items, was a very difficult thing to acquire.

In decades past, your data access, was limited to what you could manage to gather on any subject through the means available at that time. Searching library shelves for reference books, could not only be slow, but finding the exact photo, fact, or map might be nearly impossible.

Book stores had small amounts of general references on the subject of History and WW2. Used book stores had primarily softcover or "pocket editions" and the majority of information was text. What photos were found, were likely grainy black and white, and not very useful at all.

Films were often inaccurate (Hollywood!), or if original, were quick glimpses and flashes.

The massive number of lavishly illustrated specialized reference volumes, now coming to market almost daily, simply did not exist. Getting access to original materials in museums, archives, and libraries was always a costly and time consuming enterprise.

Locating and examining the actual objects, has always been a time consuming effort as well. Networking with other enthusiasts, supplied accumulated knowledge, however it also perpetrated many inaccuracies that survive to this very day! A base of accurate knowledge was hard to build up!

With the development of the new information technology however, information can be retrieved in an instant with a simple keyword query on search engines like Google or Yahoo. Multiple sources of very specific information, can quickly be compared in minutes. This gives a very good basis for reaching conclusions.

It can help a buyer discover the details about an item he finds interesting and intriguing. If he has little real knowledge, he can import a quick education, and insure he is not making a costly mistake. All it takes is doing those specialized searches, and reading through the resulting data. Of course one must still filter out the BS, but that is part of any work like this.

For a seller, it is a powerful tool. It helps him represent his item in the most accurate way. Text previously written expounding on the details of an object can be copied and edited to create a presentation that both informs and excites the buyer's interest. Even more importantly it gives both buyer and seller confidence the transaction is going to be a good experience.

I recently saw an ad for a WW2 M-1911 .45 Auto, Remington Rand Pistol, for sale. After examining the pictures and reading the text, I asked some specific questions. The answers I received by email, gave me no additional accurate information to aid in the decision making process. I felt from my own experience, the item was inaccurately described and priced. My impression was that the seller seemed to lack the inspiration, or perhaps a method to acquire and supply accurate data. This would not instill confidence for me, and would likely not in most thinking potential buyers.

Whether it is simple ignorance, assumption, or a determined attempt at deception, is NOT what I address here. I am definately not calling the motives of the seller into question.

My focus is on how simple it is to acquire accurate reference in a few moments. It is advice on how to create confidence, instead of doubt and possible mistrust. People often make assumptions about motives when money is involved, but not everybody has a level of expertise. It would make things more transparent, if all buyers and sellers make the effort to be more informed. I have handled and examined hundreds of these WW2 sidearms in the past 40 years. I decided to see what one single keyword image search on google would give me if I were a total novice. I typed this, "m-1911 remington .45 ww2" in the Data Box of Google, and then clicked for an image search. I find the old saying is true. A picture IS worth a thousand words. On the first page of Google search results, were these pictures of Government issued WW2 era manufactured .45 pistols.

So what did this 5 second effort accomplish? It gives an instant lesson.

Many other facts can readily be found in the search results, however a careful buyer would quickly note:

a. The WW2 issue .45 was finished in a matte Parkerized finish, not in a glossy bluing.

b. The WW2 grips are an injection molded resin compound with a distinctive pattern and color.

c. The edges and surfaces are sharply defined and very clean looking. This is clearly apparent even on the very worn example pictured.

The seller's pictures illustrated a pistol differing in many respects, from these very standard examples. Comparing these images, to the seller's photos would likely be enough to cause concern to potential buyer. This would hopefully motivate the buyer to expand his knowledge, by doing more research.

If the seller had made the same effort to acquire accurate data, relating to his $1500 item, he might have presented it differently. Information acquired by doing a search, would have allowed the seller to give more accurate and helpful service, when questions are asked by potential buyers.

You may wonder why I do not include photos of the pistol I refer to. The point of the article is not to indict some item or its owner. It is not to cause suspicion or drama. My mission here, is to add tools and creative thinking processes, to the skillset of all the involved buyers and sellers. If everyone operates more competently we all benefit from it.

Charles Warriner,"Instant Information, The Internet As Your Tool", germanmilitariacollectibles.com, militaria blog, 2008

The "Chase" for Veteran War Booty

"Whoever serves his county well has no need of ancestor's" -voltaire

A very interesting form of collecting militaria is to assemble as many items as possible which belonged to the same individual. The Germans label this grouping a Konvolut.

An excellent source of military memorabilia groupings is the families of the original combatants. While the families of the Allied officers and enlisted men who participated in World War II provide current-day researchers and collectors with a plethora of material, an often overlooked source of German military artifacts is surviving Wehrmacht soldiers and their families. It has been the author's experience that nearly every German family has something tucked away in their house that was left over from World War II. Needless to say, articles acquired directly from a German family do not constitute "war booty,'' per se, since the items do not represent ''spoils taken from an enemy in war".etc. Also, worthy of mention is the fact that many German family members are reluctant to admit any family connection to World War II and the Nazi regime.

Obviously, for sentimental reasons, many German families desire to keep what they have available within their own family structure. However, in many cases, the combatant is long since dead, and his surviving family members prefer the money to the sentimentality.

One such family was the descendants of Luftwaffe Knight's Cross Winner Oberleutnant Willi Dous of Passenheim/ostpr. This example was selected for inclusion in this reference, as the Dous Konvolut vividly represents the magnitude of how much material belonging to a single individual may still be acquired. All of the items listed below belonged to Oberleutnant Dous and were purchased from the family who now lives in the vicinity of Koln, Germany. Leutnant Dous, a veteran of the Spanish Civil War, was awarded the Knight's Cross on 6 July 1941 and was declared killed in action on 17 August 1941; all items remained in the family's possession until purchased by Johnson Reference Books (JRB) in 1998. The grouping consists of the following items and will represent what is, undoubtedly, one of the most complete Knight's Cross recipient groupings available on the collector's market today. The research possibilities with a nice, complete grouping like this are endless.

Personalized 2nd Model Luftwaffe Dagger Belonging to Lt.Dous.

Rich. Plumacher Sohn (triangle inside double oval) trademark. Aluminum hilt filings show dark age patina with excellent detail to oakleaf pommel and eagle crossguard. Pinned to the obverse crossguard is a beautiful miniature Spanish Cross in Gold with swords. It is interesting to note that the miniature medal is moveable until the dagger isinserted in the scabbard, at which time the medal is locked in place. Dagger is complete with near MINT set of deluxe hangers with leather tabs as well as the original 23cm portepee. Also included with the dagger are a set of Oberleutnant Dous' collar tabs, slip-on shoulder boards both with yellow backing, and an early bullion droop-tail breast eagle which has been attached to a uniform.

Thomas M. Johnson, "World War II German War Booty, Vol.III", Author Published, 1998

Johnsonreferencebooks.com

German Helmet Identifier

This chart appeared in "Der Gauleiter" back in 1990. It was sent in by Don Falk of Denver, Colorado. Don did not know the origin of the chart but he thought it was pretty good and wanted to share it with his fellow German helmet collectors. We hope you will all find it useful. If you click on the pictures they will enlarge. Bob

All About our Blog

In our Blog you will find a series of articles on the various aspects of Third Reich militaria collecting. These are intended to introduce the new collector to a particular area of our hobby and to provide the experienced collector with a refresher course, or perhaps some new info. They are not intended to replace reference books in one's library, but are here to "wet the appetite" of the collectors, and encourage them to aquire the books or magazines they were taken from. Many of these sources are currently available from book dealers, or the publisher, and some are long out of print. In the case of the later, it might take some hunting to aquire them. Militaria shows, other collectors and this web site might be good sources.

Most of this info was aquired by scanning pages and running them through an optical character recognition (OCR) program. While this is the most efficient way of aquiring the text, it is not fool-proof and errors are encountered. We have proof read all of these articles and made the corrections we found. However, don't be surprised if you find a mis-spelled word or other error here and there. We could only do so much.... In the case of the photos that accompany the articles, some are from the article itself, while others are photos I added from other sources as I thought appropriate.

This feature of germanmilitariacollecibles.com will be an ongoing project. I will add more material as often as it is available and I have time to do so. One thing you will notice is that when you open the link you will see several articles listed one after the other. These are not the only articles we have posted. Near the top of the page on the right you will see "Previous Posts". Look at the list and you will see the other articles available. Just click on them to view. Below "Previous Posts" you will see "Archives" listed by month. I suggest you look at all three places; the opening page list, the previous posts and the archives to see everything. Have fun!

We need material for this feature. If you are an author who has written something about German militaria collecting, and would like to share it with our readers, we would like to see it. You can email a copy to us. A photo copy or scan is also ok. If we use it, and we will try to, you will receive full credit. Be sure you tell us your name, the title, where or who published it (if it was) and the date published. Also, if you have something in your reference collection you think the other collectors would like to see, please let me know and we'll see if we can publish it. Older material from the 60s thru 80s would be especially welcome. Items that come from other that the standard reference books would be great. Again, if we can use it we will give you full credit for your contribution.

Finally, I would like to express my thanks to Roger Bender, of R. James Bender Publishing, for his interest and support of this project. Bob

Edged Weapons Maintenance and Storage

As we are all well aware, serious collectors of most items invest much time, effort and money in their area of interest. Often the pursuit of an item and the actual acquisition are considered the biggest challenges but this is just the beginning of a constant progression of problems that must be addressed in a timely manner in order to protect their investment.

With the investment of time and money, the collector must assume the responsibility to protect his investment as well as the preservation of the particular item for future collectors and historians. Nothing is more exasperating than to observe the deterioration of a higilly desirable piece or collection over a period of time due to lack of attention to preservation.

Rust or metal corrosion is the main culprit that me must overcome to insure the preservation of edged weapons. Rust forms on an iron containing metal surface under a common set of occurrences. The moisture content of the atmosphere, optimally at a percentage range above 65%, coupled with the presence of salts or acids on the metal surface leads to rust formation. Salts and acids are usually present due to touch contamination via the hand or are present in dust or dirt particles that are allowed to accumulate on the surface of the metal.

The best manner in which to retard rust formation is to eliminate the elements required by keeping the metal free of dust and salt contaminants and holding the humidity of the air below 60%. Attention to removing finger prints (a salt and acid containing contaminant) and storage in a closed display case to reduce dust and girt contamination should retard rust formation.

Attention to condition and the manner in which the item is stored is also necessary to preserve and edged weapons. A closed case can be both an advantage or a disadvantage unless certain steps are taken to insure optimal conditions. A silicon polish can be useful by forming a barrier to dust and dirt contaminates. However, the surface should be inspected periodically to insure that protection is maintained. The more often an item is examined, the more often it is necessary to re-coat (not repolish) the item with silicon polish. Humidity must be routinely checked in a closed area.

Storage in a closed area without some air exchange will allow humidity to reach an unacceptable level. Humidity should be monitored routinely and kept well within the acceptable limits. Any type of cloth material, especially a felt based will hold humidity, This is especially suspect if the natural unplated blade remains in direct contact for any long period of time.

Any closed and sealed area is not suitable for edged weapon storage. Sudden changes in temperature can lead to moisture accumulation by condensation. This cannot escape from a sealed area and will cause rust to form. Also paper or cardboard left in the storage area, a packing or wrapping material, will hold moisture at an unacceptable level. Newspaper is especially high in sulfur content and when coupled with moisture will form sulfuric acid which will attack the metal. This is why older newspapers yellow over a period of time. Coin dealers cite sulfur content as the reason coins darken when left in manila envelopes.

Location of the storage case also can be a problem, especially if the basement of a house or building is used. Humidity in these locations are usually higher than the acceptable level and monitoring is a must if this area is used. Also, a peg board can be used to allow full air exchange around the item with the most flexibility for display.

Items with leather present in the form of scabbards or hangers will require much more attention. The natural tanning salts in leather lead to problems over a period of time, so the removal of leather is optimal if at all possible. Storage of blades outside of the scabbard is very desirable in this situation.

If blades are displayed in the closed case to limit dirt and dust, storage of blades outside of the scabbard is advantageous, This allows for routine inspection, reduction of runner marks" and the preservation of leather contact where applicable.

Brass fittings are especially susceptible to leather problems, A green film forms with brass and nickel containing fittings when leather is in contact with the metal surface over a long period of time. This "green film", especially if remaining for several years, can actually attack the surface and leave a dull pitted area. I have noticed this periodically on M33 SS daggers with the vertical suspension device.

Blades can be routinely protected by silicon polish. Oil, even when lightly applied tends to hold moisture in contact with the surface causing rusting and darkening of the blade. Even Vaseline, often used as a protectant, under optimal condition is of some question for it's protective value. It is however, less of a darkening agent due to it's purity. Again; if this agent is used, routine inspection is required.

Blued or anodized scabbards can best be protected with a light coat of oil. These must be thoroughly cleaned prior to the application as a routine safeguard. Again, the removal of leather hangers is a must for long term storage, Often very light rust can be easily removed with triple ought steel wool prior to oil application without any damage to the scabbard. A light pressure is required and no buffing can be tolerated.

Leather scabbards can be best preserved by the application of polish after a good cleaning. Leather scabbards with a metal liner can also be polished and the seams can be re-sealed prior to polishing if required. Elmer's glue appears to be an excellent agent for sealing and any excess can be removed wi th a damp clean terry cloth prior to polishing. An excellent brand of polish that is available in various shades is Meltonian from Great Britian.

Silver anti-tarnish cloth makes an ideal container for daggers and the storage of daggers outside their scabbards in a bank's safe deposit box can be a very safe method, I have stored my Himmler SS presentation dagger in this type of bag for over four years with no noticeable change from the choice mint condition the dagger was in when obtained from the veteran. Also, I have monitored the humidity in the bank and have found it to be below 60% the year around, A humidity gauge left in the bank box and checked weekly for a few months should be your best guide.

Improper handling and storage can leave telltale marks on an edged weapon. One only has to observe an SA or SS dagger with darkened finger print stains to see what poor attention and storage can do to a prime collectible, Although these can be modified with polishing, they will never be remove totally unless the entire blade is repolished which is abhorrent to the true collector. The collector must preserve and maintain the items in his care.

Ron Weinand, EDGED WEAPON'S MAINTENANCE AND STORAGE, Der Gauleiter, 1989

About Our Blog

Welcome...

In this section you will find a series of articles on the various aspects of Third Reich militaria collecting. These are intended to introduce the new collector to a particular area of our hobby and to provide the experienced collector with a refresher course, or perhaps some new info. They are not intended to replace reference books in one's library, but are here to "wet the appetite" of the collectors, and encourage them to aquire the books or magazines they were taken from. Many of these sources are currently available from book dealers, or the publisher, and some are long out of print. In the case of the later, it might take some hunting to aquire them. Militaria shows, other collectors and our web site might be good sources.

Most of this info was aquired by scanning pages and running them through an optical character recognition (OCR) program. While this is the most efficient way of aquiring the text, it is not fool-proof and errors are encountered. We have proof read all of these articles and made the corrections we found. However, don't be surprised if you find a mis-spelled word or other error here and there. We could only do so much.... In the case of the photos that accompany the articles, some are from the article itself, while others are photos I added from other sources as I thought appropriate. And be sure to look through the archives, there are more articles than you see on this page.

This feature of germanmilitariacollecibles.com will be an ongoing project. I will add more material as often as it is available and I have time to do so.

If you are an author who has written something about German militaria collecting, and would like to share it with our readers, we would like to see it. You can email a copy to us. If we use it, and we will try to, you will receive full credit. Be sure you tell us your name, the title, where or who published it (if it was) and the date published.

Finally, I would like to express my thanks to Roger Bender, of R. James Bender Publishing, for his interest and support of this project. Bob Treend

Detecting Reproduction Cloth

There's one thing about this crazy hobby we're in - there's always something new. The other day I happen to come across a group of cloth items which were available for sale or trade and like all true collectors I couldn't resist taking a look. They were mostly very common items, a few Luftwaffe specialist patches, some low ranking collar tabs etc... nothing to get excited about. I was however immediately struck by the fact that they all appeared to be in perfectly mint condition, with the original glossiness of the thread still quite bright. Seeing so many pieces in such nice shape and also noticing that they all seemed to be from the same manufacturer, I immediately became suspicious.

Closer inspection revealed several flaws in the designs. In many cases the maker had taken some shortcuts in the sewing of the designs and had allowed the excess threads, which should have been on the back of the patch, to simply run accross the face of the patch. Thus when the sewing machine reached the end of a propeller blade, instead of disappearing under the surface and the resurfacing at the proper place to start on the next blade, it simply ran back accross the top of the first blade to the hub and then started from there on the next blade. Our friends back in the old country would never have been so untidy.

There were also the usual slight variations in design from which any fake will invariably suffer, and of course there was that indefinable, abstract quality about any fake which a collector with a few years experience learns to "feel". Up to this point I didn't notice anything unusual, just another group of trash to add to the tons already in circulation. Then I noticed something that was not expected. All of a sudden I had the impression that I was sitting behind the wheel of a brand new car - right in the dealer's showroom: It was the smell.

This little cash of supposedly thirty year old cloth smelled just like the inside of a new Ford. I took a closer sniff, yep: that was vinyl upholstery without a doubt. I don't know anything about chemistry, but I do know that the Germans didn't make insignia out of vinyl. What had happened is that somebody out there in the happy world of swindlers used a modern fabric to make antique insignia. The color, texture, thickness and grain were considered, but he forgot to take into account the odor.
Use your nose!

Bob Treend, "Original Nazi Relics Anyone", Der Gauleiter, 1977

Bringing Your Collection to Life

How many times have you held a newly acquired relic and wondered about it's history? I know I always like to know as much as possible about the things that find their way into my collection. Unlike some hobbies, (coin or stamp collecting for instance), militaria collecting is the history of individuals, not just inanimate objects. If we're lucky, we can identify Some items with specific people, places and events.

There are a number of different ways to research artifacts, but there's never a guarantee of success. First, let's look at a "worst case" scenario. If you have a relic that has no identifying marks, names, units, etc., it may seem hopeless. But it's not impossible. You cold talk to the person you got the item from and find out from who or where they got it. Then contact that person and keep working your way back until you eventually reach the original owner. This is the hardest way to conduct research and it usually isn't successful, but the possibility is still there. If you have anything at all to go on, like the name of a unit, your chances of success are pretty good. You can at least narrow the scope of your research and concentrate your efforts in a specific direction. But you also have to be able to make some educated guesses when detemining what route to take. While the best situation is to have a full name, rank and unit, anyone of these three is enough to get started. I offer the following exmnples:

I acquired a German M-35 helmet from a friend. The field grey finish had been over-sprayed with a sand color and actual sand had been applied while it was still wet. It also had some shrapnel damage, as well as blood stains in the liner. The name "Ltn. Uecker" had been painted on the rear inner rim.

Thus far I could assume two things.

One: Since the model of the helmet and the date on the liner placed it as being made in 1940, I could assume he had fought in Italy or Africa. Had it been dated after 1943, he could only have been in Italy.

Two: It was obvious he had been wounded, possibly killed. With this in mind, I wrote the U.S. National Archives, asking for any information on German officers named Uecker. They in turn sent me a photocopy of a list showing that there were four officers with that name, but all were on the German Army active Juty roster in late 1944, and all were Major or higher. Strike one.

I wrote the German Archives next. There are several archives, each one dealing with different areas. The first one I wrote replied saying they had no information on any officers name Uecker. Strike two.

I then wrote the archives at Rastatt and hit the jackpot. Their reply said that they had Leutnant der Reserve Siegfried Uecker listed. He had been assigned to the 961st Afrika Rifle Regiment, and, unfortunately, no other records existed of his service, awards, etc., due to loss or destruction. The letter also said he had been a prisoner and died in Germany in 1976.

With this infomation I could place a name with the relic and it opened another avenue of research. I have a copy of the German Order of Battle, so I looked up the 961st. That unit was assigned to the 999th Light Afrika Division, also known as the 999th Infantry Division (Penal). It was comprised of political and ordinary criminals, so it was certainly a unit with a little "color" to it. The 961st was sent to Tunisia in March 1943 and surrendered there in May when the remains of Army Group Mrika laid down their arms. Not only did I have a good collectible, but one that could now "talk"!

In another instance, at a flea market I bought an Iron Cross 2nd Class document with the original signature of a general named Mieth. The recipient had been in the 4th Company, 256th Infantry Regiment, 112th Infantry Division. Using the German Army Order of Battle, I found that the 112th had been commanded by a Major General Friedrich Mieth. It stated that he had been Chief of Operations Department in the High Command of the Army and played a major role in the planning of Operation Barbarossa. He died of a heart attack in battle near Jassy, Rumania in 1944. I again wrote the National Archives and the Bundesarchiv. I got complete records from both, although the Bundesarchiv also sent a 5 X 7 photo of him. I was pleased to learn that General Mieth had won both classes of the Iron Cross in both world wars and was also a winner of the Knight's Cross and Oakleaves.

While it isn't always this easy, researching your relics will add a lot of fun to the hobby and in some cases can add monetary value to the item. It can certainly make it a conversation piece! Even though here have been plenty of times that I came up empty handed, a few success stories far outweigh the disappointments of running into a dead end. Take the time to research your collectibles - the only thing that will limit you is your imagination. Remember even long shots can payoff. An investment of a little time and leg work and you can bring your collection to life.

The following is a list of current addresses and phone numbers that may prove helpful when doing research. For those numbers in Germany dial 011-49, then the number.

National Archives and Records Administration NNG Washington DC 20408 Maintains records on German officers who were available for duty in the last months of the war. Charges 75 cents per page with a $6.00 minimum.

National Personnel Records Center Military personnel records 9700 Page Blvd.S1. Louis MO., 63132 The NPRC can provide information on former members of the armed services.Veterans who have lost their medals and decorations over the years can write this address with a explanatory letter and have all medals and awards replaced, free of charge.

Bundesarchiv Potsdamer Strasse 1 Postfach 3 20 56075 Koblenz Phone: 0261-5050

Bundesarchiv-Zentralnachweisstelle Abteigarten 6 52076 Aachen-Komelimunster Phone: 02408-1470 Has information on former members of the German Army, Luftwaffe, Waffen-SS, Reichsarbeitsdienst (RAD) Organization Todt (OT), Armed Forces jurisdiction and awards of orders and decorations.

Bundesarchiv Ab1. VI - Militararchiv Wiesental Strasse 10 79100 Freiberg 1. Br. Information concerning Prussian Army (up to 1967), North German and Imperial Navy, protection troops and Freikorps, Reichswehr, Wehrmacht and Waffen-SS.

Berlin Document Center Wasserkafersteig 1 14163 Berlin 37 Phone: 030-8197754

Deutsche Dienststelle (WASt) Eichbomdamm 179 13403 Berlin Phone; 03041904290 (Mon - Fri, 9-2 Central European Time) FAX: 41904100 Handles correspondence for Wehrmacht killed in action.

Volksbunb Deutsche Kriegsgraberfursorge Wemer-Hilpert Strass 2 34112 Kassel The German War Graves Commission maintains war graves in more that 80 countries around the world and has a database with the names of fallen and missing German soldiers, as well as their grave site (when known).

Mark Conrad, "Bringing your Collection to Life", Der Gauleiter , 1994

The Collector as Curator - Part I

CARE AND PRESERVATION OF PAPER SPECIMENS

All of our collectibles are in a state of quite aging. Certain specimens are in an accelerated state of deterioration due to poor care especially after the ownership of a veteran or noncollector. However, proper presentation and care techniques can retard the process of deterioration.

Most papers are due to self-destruct simply because of the method of manufacture...

The problem is particularly evident with paper specimens. Most papers are due to self-destruct simply because of the method of manufacture and certainly the printing papers of the Third Reich are no exception.

The subject of paper chemistry is a complex one, but it is sufficient for the purposes of this article to say that most post-Industrial Revolution papers were manufactured in an acidic process. The most common method of sizing, or rendering a paper receptive to ink, is that of alum rosin. This is a highly acidic material and is retained in the paper after manufacture. Hence the aging process acid hydrolysis is initiated and the paper commences its inevitable self- destruction.

Not surprisingly the printing papers of the Third Reich covered the full spectrum of quality from extremely poor newsprint to high grade rag papers. And all too often, despite their original quality, these paper specimens come to our collections in an advanced state of deterioration. Quite commonly these papers have been folded or creased. Depending upon the degree of deterioration, these creases if continually folded will eventually fail and separate. The entire paper is being slowly consumed by acid hydrolysis, but those cellulose fibers along the crease are particularly susceptible to failure because they are weakened during the stress of folding.

Paper is primarily an organic material and its cellulose composition renders it sensitive to many environmental influences. In particular, heat, sunlight, high relative humidity or extremely dry conditions are environmental stresses that accelerate paper degradation. An extreme example is the evidence of yellowing of modern newsprint when left for just a few hours in direct sunlight.

Frequently these collectibles have been stored for prolonged periods in hot, dry conditions. Equally harmful are the conditions of a damp basement. While our collections are housed in much more favorable conditions, we must nonetheless be cautions in our display techniques.Again, the chemistry of paper degradation is complex and still not completely understood, but is is certain that sunlight, either direct of diffused, is destructive to paper. Artificial lighting, while believed to be less harmful, is certainly no less dangerous over a prolonged period of exposure.

Sunlight causes accelerated aging in paper because of the generation of heat.

Photo degradation is another aspect of the process, but heat is known to be a primary contributor to deterioration because it evaporates imbibed moisture, a vital component in paper which bonds the fiber together. Prolonged storage in an excessively hot environment will prematurely dry a paper, cause it to yellow and fade and thus promote brittleness.

An extremely humid condition for long periods can be equally destructive. The humid climate of the Southern States is particularly troublesome. Unconditioned basement storage in any climate can produce the same results. High relative humidity promotes rapid mold growth, corrodes metal attachments and staples and further accelerates the phenomenon of acid hydrolysis.The problem of mold growth on paper, a condition referred to by paper conservationists as foxing, is most common with antique papers from ca. 1800 on. It is caused by mold spores present in the paper stock from the time of its manufacture.. Most often the condition of foxing is initiated by high relative humidity and results in brown blemishes on the paper' surface.

While all of this may seem at the least very distressing, a collection can be preserved and further deterioration arrested with some simple conservation techniques. Make certain that all display area windows are well shaded during daylight hours. Some blinds significantly reduce sunlight. Artificial lighting ought to be diffused and muted. Lights should be turned off when the room is not in use. It is particularly important to note that many papers contain dyestuffs and colorants which are not lightfast. Even the briefest exposure to direct sunlight is known to fade the dyes contained in paper award packets. Further, it is not recommended to illuminate a paper artifact with a display lamp. Such exposure will fade printing and writing inks.

Archivists discourage the use of clear plastic enclosures for storage of any paper artifacts.

Many collectors have no alternative but to display and store their collections in basements. In such cases a dehumidifier is highly recommended particularly if the residence is in a humid climate. Museum and archive conditions are typically 50% RH at 70 degrees Farenheit and paper is believed to be quite stabile in this environment. While museum conditions are not practical for a residence, it is recommended that approximate values of 65% RH and 70 degrees be maintained. Certainly no conditions are absolute, whether the collection is stored in a archive or a residence, but a consistent environment is critical. Likewise, a humidifier can restore a favorable ambient environment under dry climatic conditions.

The proper handling of paper is imperative.

The perspiration from our hands is acidic and frequent handling can promote further damage. Wash and dry your hands well before handling paper artifacts. This diminishes smudging also.

Use caution when lifting a paper specimen.

Careless handling can cause an already weakened paper to tear particularly at folds or creases. Store your paper documents flat and unfolded. The absolute protection from a purist's view point is to store the document between two slightly larger sheets of acid-free alkaline sized, white cotton fiber blotter paper. . In the ideal condition, storage materials (Le., envelopes, file folders) should comply with the archival specifications of the Library of Congress and the National Archives. This may not be practical for all collections but should be considered for particularly rare specimens. Such conservation quality storage materials, envelopes and file folders are not difficult to acquire commercially. Consult a familiar museum or archive on the sources of such materials.

Not that the aged condition of our collections is distressing enough, but now the additional threat of urban atmospheric pollution has caused concern among paper conservationists. The burning of fossil fuels has rapidly created the condition of acid rain. Urban environments in particular are high in sulfur dioxide, a corrosive gas which is already absorbed into the paper. In many European cities the problem is alarming. Again, proper storage materials can retard the process of deterioration. Archive quality file folders, storage envelopes and enclosures will provide satisfactory protection against the polluting effects or urban environments.

Archivists discourage the use of clear plastic enclosures for the storage of any paper artifacts. Many of these materials are not chemically inert and can degrade over time thus damaging a paper document. Too often a paper will adhere to plastic, either from static electricity or from attraction to oiled surfaces, thereby making removal of the specimen difficult. Surface dirt and grit, although minute, are extremely abrasive and will harm" a paper's surface. This is particularly true in the case of photograph storage.

...framing of paper ought to be a cautious procedure.

Many collectors have chosen to frame certain items. While this makes a handsome display, the framing of paper ought to be a cautious procedure. Most mat boards are highly acidic in themselves. Over time and in the presence of heat, sunlight and humidity the acidic materials in the paper mat will be absorbed into the subject article. This phenomenon is know as acid migration or print bunzing. Make certain that your framer uses genuine archival framing techniques. These methods and materials are also prescribed by the National Archives and mats and mounting boards should be acid-free, conservation quality. The buffing of the paper board with calcium carbonate by the manufacturer is a method that renders the framing of storage materials resistant to acid degradation.

A paper specimen should never be pressed directly into contact with the framing glass. If condensed moisture is present inside the frame the artifact may rapidly exhibit foxing or possibly stain from water damage.

It is certain that these paper artifacts will continue to selfdestruct...

Paper making has always been a complex process. All papers are manufactured to certain exact specifications and certainly this was common to the paper products produced by the Third Reich. This explains the uniformity in certain types of specimens, particularly award documents, although other types of paper for specific applications show common properties. It is probable that such printing papers for military correspondence, award documents or letterhead for high officials, for example, were produced to given specifications. This was no doubt the case during the early years of the Third Reich, although no substantive period data has surfaced to confirm this. It is also likely that shortages from the worsening wartime conditions forced Third Reich authorities to procure paper products from the inventories of occupied countries. This may help to explain the extreme variation in quality in certain papers for specific applications. What is known, however, is that the European paper makers of the 1933-1945 period produced an acidic product and that these papers are not a permanent, durable material. Few period specimens exhibit the quality of permanency.

It is certain that these paper artifacts will continue to self- destruct unless properly cared for. Frequent inspection for signs of distress is highly recommended. Ultimately it is within the judgment of the collector to determine the condition and quality of the specimen and its appropriate care. Preservation techniques are simple, a collection can still be displayed and the integrity of the artifact will be preserved.

Author's note The care of photographic materials is a subject in itself. The most important consideration with photographs is the image emulsion and its response to environmental stresses. Photographic negatives too, must have special care. A follow-up article is planned to discuss this subject.

Alden W. Hamilton, "The collector as Curator - Part I", Der Gauleiter, 1990

Tips on Detecting Fake Uniforms

A fake uniform is one which is simply not what it appears to be: It is not a uniform made for the Wehrmacht, Party etc. but is a modern made uniform made for the purpose of deceiving the collector. A made-up uniform is one which is put together from original and/or reproduction parts, with the insignia added after 1945 by a collector or dealer for the purpose of deceiving the collector.

It is almost impossible to write out a list of things to watch for in buying a uniform, but there are some guidelines which I would like to bring to the collectors attention. By using these and by applying some common sence a collector with little experience can guard himself from being swindled.

1. HAVE A REFERENCE LIBRARY: If you are going to collect SS uniforms, you should own some good books on the subject. How else are you going to learn and where can you go for quick information? No collector can have too many references.

2. IF YOU ARE NOT AN "EXPERT" YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE: When you are in doubt, ask. Get a second opinion before you spend your money.

3. KNOW YOUR SOURCE: If the item is coming from a "vet" then there is little to worry about. If it is being offered by a collector or dealer consider the reputation of the person. Is he known to be honest, or does he have a reputation of selling fakes and pulling tricks on unknowning collectors.

4. LOOK AT THE OVERALL APPEARANCE OF THE UNIFORM: Does it appear to be 30 years old? Even if in great condition it should not have that "brand new look and feel. Smell it! Strange as this may sound, your nose can detect age very well. Does the tayloring agree with what you find in your references? Is the style, cut and color correct? If your first impression is negative -- watch out!

5. INSPECT FOR LABELS: Remember, these can be fakes too, but a well marked tunic with correct labels is better than an unmarked one. Are the labels proper to this particular item? Are the RZM tags (if any) correct for this type of uniform? Did the person whos name appears inside the tunic, actually exist and did he hold this rank and belong to this unit? Use your references!

6. ARE ALL INSIGNIA PROPER TO THIS UNIFORM?: Check to make sure all the various insignia are correct. THIS CAN BE THE BIGGEST TIP-OFF TO A FAKE OR MADE-UP: First verify that the insignia is all original. Then check to see if they are all proper to this uniform. Do the collar tabs match the shoulder boards? Is the breast eagle proper to this type uniform? Are the buttons correct? Does the uniform have the proper size and color of piping around the collar?

7. LOOK FOR INSIGNIA ADDITIONS AND DELEATIONS: Check the way the insignia is sewn on the uniform, does it appear to be original or has it been changed? Is there evidence of any insignia being removed? Does the Waffen-SS tunic show signs of once having an Army breast eagle?? Does all the insignia look to be about the same age, or does the sleeve eagle look new while the tunic is well worn? Are the boards mint and the tabs shabby? Is the quality of all insignia about the same and is it the quality you would expect from a private or a general?

8. IS THE PRICE "TO GOOD TO BE TRUE?" If so--it probably is: No collector or dealer is going to offer you a $500. item for $200., unless there is something he knows about it that you don't: And what he probably knows is that the item is a fake. Beware of any "bargains". However, remember that some greedy crooks will hold out for an original price even though they are selling a fake.

9. CONTROL YOUR EMOTIONS: I've stood by and wathced a collector (including myself) rationalize away all the flaws and signs of a fake simply because he "wants" to believe the item is real. If you have been looking for a certain item for years, it can be hard to have to tell yourself that the gem you just found is a beautiful fake. You want it to be real, so you convince yourself it is, regardless ofall evidence to the contrary.

I realize that the list is far from complete and that following these suggestions will not insure that you won't be fooled. But by using these guidelines your chances are greatly inproved over simply "taking the sellers word for it"!

Bob Treend, "Anything they could make then - They can make now", Der Gauleiter, 1976

Nazi Symbols

For the new collector the various symbols encountered in our hobby can be difficult to understand. Here are some of the ones every collector should know on sight. There are many others.... Bob

Images from: Ray R. Cowdery, "Nazi Militaria - Fake or Real?", USM Inc., 1993

Collecting on a Budget

Somewhere there is a line between "getting a good buy" and "ripping off the rube". Where that line lies is beyond the scope of this article. I'll let you decide, and determine which side you want to stay on....

I wrote this article 30 years ago. Times have changed, but I think most of the ideas are valid today. It would be interesting to see a follow-up on this written by one of you. If interested, just email me.


COLLECTING ON A BUDGET

Although most of us build our collections by trading with collectors and dealers, there are many in our fraternity who have been able to put together a very fine grouping of Nazi items by purchasing from noncollectors. Even at this late date there is a vast quantity of all types of militaria in the hands of vets, their families and friends. If you have never made any attempt to contact any of these people, you are perhaps missing out on some very good opportunities. There are many ways to go about finding the goodies.

First, and most obvious, is by asking around amoung your friends, relatives, co-workers etc. This won't take long to do, and before long you will know if there is anything out there, after that, it takes a little more work and effort. The best bet is to advertize in some of the local newspapers and neighborhood publications such as the trade sheets. I've been at this for quite some time and have met with some successes, and I can assure you that it has very definately been worthwhile. Over the years I have learned a couple of things about this type of collecting and I would like to pass on some tips to any of you who want to try it.

First and formost, NEVER NEVER use the word "NAZI" in an advertisement! That will guarantee some calls from screwballs and weird-o's! Also, I suggest you "buffer" your ad by requesting other types of militaria, whether you collect it or not. A good example is WANTED: War Souvenirs from Japan, Germany and Italy" or "U.S., Japanese and German war relics of all types wanted". By including the other countries you appear to be a military collector and not a "Nazi sympathizer". When you receive a phone call try to get as much information about the items as possible. Ask about where the caller got them and verify that they didn't come from the flea market, caus' if they did - they're probably going to be junk or fakes: Remember that you are talking to someone who probably knows nothing about this type of thing, so when the old lady on the phone tells you she has a "Nazi Colonel's cross with "Der Deutschen Mutter" on it, don't break into hilarious laughter. You are going to find that people have some strange ideas about these things and the best way to handle it is to take them seriously now and laugh later when you have the goodies.. After you have got enough information to determine that they have something worth going after, try to make an appointment to see it. It is very important to make the appointment as soon as possible, don't waste a lot of time on the phone getting more details, get them to let you come see it, and if it can be that same day, all the better. As the saying goes--strike while the iron is hot-- the longer you wait the less your chances. Many people will ask you about the value of items on the phone. My advise is NEVER EVER price an item before you have seen it, because the chances of misidentification are too great and that can blow it for you. If you thought it was a Knight's cross and its only a 2nd class IC, then you've made a fool of yourself and have to try to explain your "slight" error, which is almost impossible. When you visit the person with the goodies, be patient and if they want to tell war stories, let them, this will get you on a friendly basis. Offer NO information about the items, but if they ask, answer the questions with a minimum of info.. The more you tell them, the more they are going to think the stuff is worth, and I presume you will want to try to buy it as cheaply as possible. If there are several items, try to avoid priceing them individually and make an offer for the group. Of course it is better if you can get them to tell you what they want for the stuff, but you will find that they usually will tell you that they don't know anything about it and want you to make an offer. Naturally, I suggest you make that offer as low as possible, but try to make it high enough so they will accept your first offer. It is very bad to have to raise the offer because this will give them the idea that you are holding out on them and can make it even more difficult for you to pry the items loose. IF THEY EVER GET THE IDEA THAT THE ITEMS ARE WORTH SOME "REAL" MONEY" you're sunk. I don't wish to sound like a con-man but thats the way it works.

Some final thoughts: Always take cash, not checks, and when I make an offer I take the cash out of my wallet so they can see it (you sly devil you). Never show a special interest in any one particular item, look at all of them equally, if you stare too hard at one piece, they might decide to let you have the rest and keep the one you really want. If you are going to run a "display ad" the sports section is the best. Never mention another collector to them, try to give the impression that you're the only source of cash around. And finally, prepare yourself for a lot of useless phone calls. If you're lucky, you might get something good from one in every ten calls and something great in one in a hundred. Patience is what it takes, but if you hang in there and keep trying, something will eventually turn up and it will all have been worth it....

Bob Treend: "Collecting on a Budget". 1977, Der Gauleiter

Third Reich Glossary

This glossary does not pretend to be exhaustive. It has been included as a ready reference to the English equivalents of some of those German terms and abbreviations most often encountered by collectors.

* * *

Abzeichen - insignia; badge

Achselband - aiguillette

a.D.: ausser Dienst - out of service, retired (eg Oberst a.D.)

'Alles fiir Deutschland' - 'Everything for Germany', motto of the SA and NSKK Allgemeine-SS - the general body of the SS, composed of part-time, full-time and inactive or honorary members, distinct from the Waffen-SS

Amt - office; bureau Ambord - on board; at sea

Anzug - uniform

'ArbeitAdelt' -'Work Enobles', motto of .
the RAD

Armelband - cuff title

Armelraute - sleeve diamond

Armelschild - arm shield; campaign shield

Artillerie - artillery

Ausfiihrung - execution; production

Auszeichnung - award; decoration

Bahnhofswache - Railway Station Guard

Band - ribbon

BDM: Bund Deutscher Miidel- League of German Girls, female equivalent of the HJ

Bedruckt - printed

Bekleidung - clothing

Bergmutze - mountain cap

Beschliige - fittings; mountings

BEV0: Bandfabrik Ewald V orsteher - the principal manufacturer of woven badges. The acronym BEVo (often erroneously written as BEVO, BeVo or' Bevo) has come to be used generally by collectors when referring to all machine-woven insignia

Blanke waffen - edged weapons

Blech - tin

'Blut and Ehre' - 'Blood and Honour', motto ofthe HJ
Blutorden - Blood Order; a senior NSDAP award for Party members who had participated in the Munich Putsch, or who had rendered outstanding service or been killed whilst engaged in political activities

Bordmutze - boarding cap

Brillanten - diamonds

Brustklappe -lapel

Cie./Co.: Compagnie - (commerical) company

DAF: Deutsche Arbeitsfront- German Labour Front. Comprised all trade guilds, corporations and professional associations

DAK: Deutsches Afrikakorps - German Africa Corps

DBGM: Deutsches Bundesgebrauchsmuster - Nationally Used Pattern (post-1945). See also 'DRGM'

Degen - sword

'Deutschland Erwache!' - 'Germany Awake!' An early NSDAP slogan, later incorporated into the designs for propaganda badges and the feldzeichen flag cloth

Dienstanzug - service uniform

Dienstgrad - service grade; rank

Dienstmutze - service cap; kepi

Dienststellungsabzeichen - proficiency badge

Diplomatisches Korps - Diplomatic Corps

DJ: Deutsche Jagerschaft - German Hunting Association : Deutsches Jungvolk - German Young People,junior section of the HJ

DK: Deutsches Kreuz- War Order of the German Cross

DLV: Deutscher Luftsport Verband - German Air Sports Association, forerunner of the Luftwaffe

Dolch - dagger

Dolchgehange - dagger hangers

d.R.: der Reserve - (officer of) the reserve

Draht - wire

DRGM: Deutsches Reichsgebrauchsmuster - Nationally Used Pattern (pre-1945). Uniform accessories such as buttons, dagger hangers, peaked cap sweatbands and so on came in many alternative styles to satisfy differing customer requirements. The government officially approved a few ofthe better quality and more regular of these variants and commended them for use nationwide. Such pieces were marked 'DRGM', frequently accompanied by a model number and/or maker's symbol.
See also 'DBGM'

Drillich - denim

DRK: Deutsches Rotes Kreuz - German Red Cross

DRL: Deutscher Reichsbund fUr Leibesiibungen - German National Physical Training Union DRP:

Deutsches Reichspatent- German National Patent. Once a patent was granted to a manufacturer in respect of any new design of badge, buckle or whatever, pieces of that design were marked 'DRP' indicating that they could be made only by the patentee

Deutsches Reichspost - German National Post Office

D.Sch.V.: Deutscher Schiitzen Verband - German Rifle Association

Durchbrochen - pierced out; silhouetted

Echt - genuine

Ehrenzeichen - decoration

Einheit - unit

Einheitsfeldmiitze - standard field cap

EK: Eisernes Kreuz - Iron Cross

EL: Eichenlaub - oakleaves (symbolic of strength)

Email- enamel

Entwurf - design

Erinnerungsmedaille - commemorative medal

Erinnerungsband - commemorative cuff title

Ersatz - substitute

Etui- case; box

Fa: Firma - firm Fahne - flag

Fahnenspitze - finial

Fahnentriiger - standard-bearer

Fahnentuch - flag cloth

Fallschirmjager- paratroops

Fiilschung - fake; reproduction

Feldbindenschloss - officer-pattern circular belt buckle

Feldanzug - field uniform

Feldbluse - field blouse; combat tunic

Feldgendarmerie - Military Police

Feldherrnhalle - military monument in Munich, revered by the Nazis; gave its name to an elite SA regiment and associated army units

Feldjiigerkorps - a shock formation of the SA: later name given to military police units detailed to round up deserters and defeatists

Feld-Kommandostelle - field headquarters

Feldmiitze - field cap

Feldzeichen - SA/SS regimental standard of the vexillum type

Feuerwehr - Fire Brigade; controlled by the Orpo

Flak: Flugabwehrkanone - anti-aircraft gun

Fliegerbluse - flight blouse

Fliegermiitze - airman's cap

Flott - fleet

Fliigelrad - winged wheel, emblem of the Reichsbahn

Fransen - fringe

Freikorps - Free Corps; right-wing paramilitary units of the early 1920s, usually composed of nationalist ex-soldiers. Many later joined the SA and SS

Freiwilliger - volunteer

Fiihrer -leader

Gau - Nazi province. There were 42 throughout the Reich

Gauleiter - the highest ranking local NSDAP official, responsible for political, economic and civil defence matters in his Gau

Gautag - Province Day; an annual provincial NSDAP celebration with rallies, parades, etc

Gebirgsjager/Gebirgstruppen - mountain riflemen/mountain troops

Gebr: Gebriider - brothers

Gekreuzte schwerter - crossed swords

Gendarmerie - Rural Police

Geschwader - a Luftwaffe Wing (approximately 100 aircraft)

Ges. Gesch: Gesetzlich GeschiitztLegally Protected. When manufacturing firms created new 'designs or design variations for badges, buckles, etc, patents were normally applied for in respect of these. During the time that such patents were pending, which might amount to several months or even years, the pieces in question were marked 'Ges. Gesch.', indicating that they were the copyright of the original producer. Other firms could not manufacture them without first obtaining the original producer's permission

Gestickt - embroidered

Gewebt - woven

G.m.b.H.: Gesellschaft mit beschrankter Haftung - company with limited liabili ty

Grabenpanzer - trench armour

Graviert - engraved

Grenadier - infantryman

Griffe - grip; handle

Grosskreuz - Grand Cross

Gruppe - Group; a territorial command of a military or paramilitary formation

Hagelrune - hail rune; the nordic symbol ofreplenishment and new life. Featured on several SS ceremonial accoutrements and was also a Waffen-SS divisional emblem

Hakenkreuz - swastika
Halsband - neck ribbon

Heer - army

Hersteller- maker; manufacturer

Herstellungszeichen - maker's mark

Hilfs-Krankentrager - auxiliary stretcherbearer

HJ: Hitlerjugend - Hitler Youth

Hoheitsabzeichen - National Emblem; the eagle and swastika of the NSDAP and, later, of Nazi Germany. Generally speaking, the Party eagle faced to the left and the State eagle to the right

Hohl- hollow-backed

iA.: im Auf trag - by order of I1m Dienst der Deutschen Wehrmacht' 'In the Service of the German Armed Forces'

"Im Dienste der Waffen-SS' - 'In the Service of the Waffen-SS'

Infanterie - infantry

Innenausstattung -liner; sweatband

Jacke - jacket

Jager- rifleman

Jagerverbanden - hunting associations

JG: Jagdgeschwader - Luftwaffe Fighter Wing

JM: Jungmadel- Young Girls, the junior section of the BDM

Kampfabzeichen - see 'Kriegsabzeichen'

Kampfbinde - swastika armband

Kampfgruppe - battle group

Kampfrune - see 'Tyr-rune'

Kastenschloss - box buckle; the standard NCOs' rectangular belt buckle

Kavallerie - cavalry

Kettengehange - chain hangers

KG: Kampfgeschwader - Luftwaffe Bomber Wing

Kinnriemen - chinstrap

Klinge - blade

Knopf - button; pommel

Kokarde - cockade

Koppel- belt

Koppelschloss - belt buckle

Koppelschnalle - 'open claw' or 'open face' belt buckle

Kragenspiegel- collar patches

Kranz - wreath

Kreis - a Nazi district; the principal sub-division of a Gau

Kreistag - District Day; annual celebrations in an NSDAP Kreis

Kriegsabzeichen - war badge; also known as the 'kampfabzeichen' or 'battle badge'

Kriegsmarine - navy

Kriegsmetall- war metal; a poor quality alloy of zinc, copper and lead commonly called 'pot metal' by collectors

Kunstseide - artificial silk; rayon

Kupfer - copper

KVK: Kriegsverdienstkreuz - War Merit Cross

KVM: Kriegsverdienstmedaille - War Merit Medal

LAH: Leibstandarte SS 'Adolf Hitler' - the showpiece regiment of the SS; Hitler's ceremonial bodyguard. Formed the nucleus of a wartime panzer division of the same name

Landzolldienst- Land Customs Service

Laufbahnabzeichen - trade or speciality badge

LDO: Leistungsgemeinschaft der Deutschen Ordenhersteller - Administration of German Orders Manufacturers; issued approved firms with permits to produce national orders and decorations. Each firm also received a manufacturer's number, or 'L'-number, as a visible sign of LDO approval. From March, 1941, 'L'-numbers were required to be stamped on certain decorations in place of the maker's trademark or address. This requirement was not rigidly enforced however, so many later decorations retained the old markings while others were completely devoid of any sort of maker's mark.

Lebensrune -life rune; the old norse symbol of life. Used by various Nazi women's and social welfare organisations. Also featured on SS documents and grave markers to show date of birth

Lederwiderhalt -leather tab attached to some belt buckles to prevent slippage

Leichtmetall-lightweight alloy

Litzen - cording; the name generally given to army-style

collar patches

Lorbeerkranz -laurel wreath (symbolic of victory)

Lowenkopf -lion-head

LSSAH - see 'LAB'

Luftschutz - see 'RLB'

Luftwaffe - air force

Massiv - solid

M.d.R.: Mitglied des Reichstags Member of Parliament

Medaille - medal
'Mehr sein als Scheinen' - 'Be more than you appear to be', motto of the NPEA

'Meine Ehre Heisst Treue' - 'My Honour is Loyalty', motto of the SS

Messer - knife

Messing - brass

MG: Maschinengewehr - machine gun

MP: Maschinenpistole - machine pistol; sub-machine gun

NPEA: Nationalpolitische Erziehungsanstalten - National Political Educational Institutes;trained selected HJ members for future political leadership

NSBO: Nationalsozialistische Betriebsorganisation - National Socialist Factory Organisation;
forerunner of the DAF

NSDAP: Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei - National Socialist German Workers' Party; the full title of the Nazi Party

NSFK: Nationalsozialistisches Fliegerkorps - National Socialist Flying Corps; functioned as a civilian reserve pool for the Luftwaffe

NSKK: Nationalsozialistisches Kraftfahrkorps - National Socialist Motor Corps; originally motorised SA, became an independent NSDAP formation responsible for the premilitary training of recruits for the army's transport and armoured units

NSRK: Nationalsozialistisches Reiterkorps - National Socialist Riding Corps; fostered general interest in equestrian events and, during the war, assisted in the local training of Wehrmacht and Waffen-SS cavalrymen

NS-Studentenbund - National Socialist Students

League 'Nur Empfanger zu Offnen', or 'Nur von dem Beliehenen zu Offnen' - 'Only to be opened by the recipient'; usually printed on the small cardboard boxes in which decorations and their presentation cases were delivered

Oberstbefehlshaber - Supreme Commander

Odalrune - Norse symbol of kinship or family. Featured on various Nazi badges, particularly those associated with the bringing together of ethnic Germans

Oflag: Offizierlager - prisoner-of-war camp for officers

OKH: Oberkommando des Heeres - High Command of the Army .
OKL: Oberkommando der Luftwaffe - High Command of the Air Force

OKM: Oberkommando der Kriegsmarine - High Command of the Navy

OKW: Oberkommando de rWehrmacht - High Command of the Armed Forces

Orden - order

Ordensschnalle - ribbon bar

Orpo: Ordnungspolizei - Order Police; the regular uniformed police comprising the Schupo, Gendarmerie and Feuerwehr

Ortsgruppe - a village or small town grouping; the principal organisational sub-division of an NSDAP Kreis

Ostmedaille - East Medal; medal for the winter campaign in Russia, 1941-42

OT: Organisation Todt - government agency responsible for the construction of strategic highways and military installations

Pak: Panzerabwehrkanone - anti-tank gun

Panzer - armour; tank

Panzergrenadier - tank-supporting infantryman

Panzerjacke - tank crew jacket

Panzerschiff - pocket battleship

Paradeanzug - dress uniform

Parierstange - crossguard

Parteiabzeichen der NSDAP - NSDAP membership badge

Pauke - drum

Pg: Parteigenosse - Party member

Pickelhaube - spiked helmet

Pionier- engineer; sapper

Poliert - polished

Politische Leiter - Political Leader; one of the hierarchy of NSDAP officials

Polizei - police

Portepee - sidearm knot

Postschutz - Postal Protection Force; maintained security of post offices and communications installations. Absorbed into the SS in 1942

RAD: Reichsarbeitsdienst - National Labour Service; compulsory for both young men (prior to military service) and women. Built roads, assisted with farm work, etc

Radiert - etched

Rang - rank

RB-Nr: Reichsbetriebsnummer - National Factory Code Number; replaced manufacturer's name and address on Wehrmacht-issue uniform clothing after 1942 Reichsbahn - National Railway Service Reichsbahnschutz - National Railway Protection Force, with the status of auxiliary police. Transferred to the SS in 1942

Reichsdienstflagge - National Service Flag

Reichsfarben - the national colours of black, white and red

Reichsforstdienst - National Forestry Service

Reichsheer - see 'Heer'

Reichskriegsflagge - National War Flag

Reichsparteitag - national NSDAP celebrations held each September in Nurnberg

Reichswehr- army of the Weimar Republic

Ringkragen - gorget

RK: Ritterkreuz - Knight's Cross (usually the Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross)

RL: Reichsleiter - Ministerial NSDAP official

RLB: Reichsluftschutzbund - National Air Raid Protection Force

Rock - tunic

RZM: Reichszeugmeisterei - National Material Control; a body set up on 1 April 1929 to supervise the manufacture, quality and pricing of Nazi Party uniform items. The basic functions of the RZM were to see that NSDAP contracts went to Aryan firms, and to ensure that final products were of a high standard yet priced to 'suit the pocket' of the average Party member. On 16 March 1935 contract numbers were introduced and awarded to every RZM-approved company. After that date, RZM numbers replaced makers' marks on all NSDAP accoutrements

SA: Sturmabteilung - Assault Detachment; the original streetfighters of the NSDAP, eclipsed politically by the SS after 1934. From 1939, responsible for the pre-military training of all able-bodied males

Sabel- sabre

Samt - velvet

Scheide - scabbard

Schiffchen - boarding cap; literally 'little ship'

Schirmmutze - peaked cap

Schnur - cord

(mit) Schraube und Platte - screw-backed

Schulterklappen - shoulder straps; epaulettes

Schupo: Schutzpolizei - Town Police

Schutze - rifleman

Schutzmutze - protective cap; usually refers to the reinforced beret worn by panzer crews

Schutzzeichen - proof mark; trade mark

Schwert - sword

SD - see 'SS-SD'

Seitengewehr - bayonet

Seitenhaken - belt hook

Siegrunen - victory runes; the' double-S' flashes worn by the SS . The old Norse'S' rune was symbolic of victory, hence the name

Soldbuch - pay book

Sonnenrad - sunwheel; an ancient Nordic device representing the sun. Widely used on insignia by the Nazis, either in its traditional form or as a 'sunwheel swastika'

Soutache - chevron of waffenfarbe worn above the cockade on field caps

Spange - clasp; bar

SS: Schutzstaffel- Protection Squad; originally Hitler's bodyguard, expanded to control the police, the concentration camps and a vast army

SS-BW: SS-Bekleidungswerk - SS clothing factory; a firm contracted to produce Waffen-SS uniform clothing

SS-SD: SS-Sicherheitsdienst- SS Security Service; later responsible for national security, espionage and counterespionage

SS-TV: SS-Totenkopfverbande - SS Death's Head Units; concentration camp guards. In 1939, formed the nucleus of the SS- Totenkopf- Division, one of the first SS field formations

SS- VT: SS- Verfiigungstruppe - SS Special Purpose Troops; the militarised formations of the SS renamed Waffen-SS in the winter of 1939-40

Staatsamt - Government Administration Office; the higher echelons of the civil service

Stab - staff; baton

Staffel- Luftwaffe Squadron (approximately 10 aircraft)

Stahl helm - steel helmet; also the name given to a nationalist ex-servicemen's organisation absorbed by the SA in 1933

Stalag: Stammlager - prisoner-of-war camp for non-commissioned ranks

Standarte - Nazi paramilitary unit of regimental size

Stern - star; rank 'pip'

Stielgranate - stick grenade

Stoff - cloth

Streifendienst - patrol service; responsible for the internal policing of the various NSDAP paramilitary formations. Each formation had its own Streifendienst

Stuka: Sturzkampfflugzeug - dive-bomber (usually the Junkers 87)

Sturm - Nazi paramilitary unit of company size

Sturmbann - Nazi paramilitary unit of battalion size

Sturzhelm - crash helmet

Tarbusch - fez

Tarnmutze - camouflage cap

Tarnuberzug - camouflage cover for the steel helmet

TeNo: Technische Nothilfe - Technical Emergency Service; an auxiliary technical force of the Orpo largely engaged on air raid damage. Also employed as field units in the army, air force and Waffen-SS

Tigerjacke - 'tiger jacket'; the SS camouflage smock

TN - see 'TeNo'

Totenkopf - death's head; skull-andcrossbones. Worn in several forms by a number of elite imperial German regiments, the type used by the 1st and 2nd Prussian Life Guards was adopted by the SS at its inception. When, in 1934, the same type began to be used by the new Heer panzer arm, the SS devised its own, unique, totenkopf, with lower jaw, which it wore thereafter

Totenrune - death rune; the old Norse symbol of death. Featured on SS documents and grave markers to show date of death

Trager- holder; bearer (eg Ritterkreuztrager)

Tresse - braid

Tropenbluse - tropical tunic

Tropenhelm - sun helmet

Tschako - shako

Tuchrock - (Luftwaffe) service tunic

Tyr-rune - the ancient Nordic 'T' rune. symbolic ofthe Norse god Tyr and of leadership in battle. Also known as the 'kampfrune' or 'battle rune'. Formed the basic design of several Nazi badges, including the Hitler Youth Proficiency Badge and the insignia worn by graduates and staff of paramilitary officer schools. SS soldiers killed in action had their graves marked by Tyr-runes rather than crosses

Uberzieher - reefer Urkunde - award document; citation

USchlA: Untersuchungs-und Schlichtungs-Ausschuss - Committee for Investigation and Settlement; the internal NSDAP court

Verbotzeit- 'forbidden time'; Nazi term for the period between 1923 and 1925 when the NSDAP and its uniforms and insignia were prohibited

Verg.: Vergoldet- gilded

Vers.: Versilbert - silvered

Versuchsmodell- experimental model

Verliehungstute - award packet

'Volkischer Beobachter' - 'People's Observer'; the principal daily newspaper of the NSDAP

Volkssturm - home guard

Vorstossen - piping

Vulkanfiber - vulcanised fibre; a brittle plastic similar in texture to glass fibre. Widely used in the manufacture of headgear, particularly cap peaks and lightweight helmets

Waffen-SS: Bewaffnete-SS - armed SS; the combat formations of the SS comprised initially of the SS-TV and the SS-VT. Put nearly 40 divisions into the field during World War 2

Waffenamt- Ordnance Office; inspected and controlled the quality of Wehrmacht equipment

Waffenfarbe: Waffengattungsfarbe - branch of service colour

Waffenrock - (army) dress tunic or (Luftwaffe) uniform tunic

Wappen: Wappenschild - heraldic shield, or decal, worn on the steel helmet

Wasserschutzpolizei - Water Protection Police; patrolled Germany's harbours, canals and waterways

Wasserzolldienst - Water Customs Service

WBA: WehrmachtbekleidungsamtArmed Forces Clothing Office;controlled production of government issue Wehrmacht uniform clothing

Wehrmacht - the armed forces, comprising the Heer, Kriegsmarine and Luftwaffe

Wehrmachtadler- the armed forcespattern eagle, with folded wings

Wehrpass - military identity/personal record book

WHW: Winterhilfswerk - Winter Charity; a Nazi charitable organisation for poor relief not, in fact, restricted to winter. During the war it also collected items of clothing donated by the civil populace for wear by soldiers at the front

Wimpel - pennant

Winkel - chevron

Wolfsangel- wolf hook; a mystical Germanic symbol traditionally supposed to ward off werewolves Used in various forms on Third Reich insignia

Wolle - wool

Zahnrad - cog-wheel; the emblem of the DAF and TeNo

Zeltbahn - shelter quarter; poncho

Zestorer - destroyer

Zolldienst - Customs Service

Zugwache - military troop train or supply train guard

Roben Lumsden: "A Collector's Guide to Third Reich Militaria" Ian Allan Ltd., 1987

Flag Terminology

When describing the details of a flag it is assumed that the flag to be described is flying from a staff held in the right hand of a bearer who is facing the observer with the flag flying over the head of the bearer towards his left. The side of the flag which faces the observer is called the 'obverse' and the other side 'reverse'. (Fig. A).

However, it should be noted that this method employed to 'read' a flag does not apply in the case of regimental flags and standards used by the German armed forces. Traditionally the German military have always referred to the obverse and reverse of their colours as the 'left side' and the 'right side'. This practice is the result of the position in which the flag or standard is held in relation to the bearer.

For the purpose of describing either face of a German military flag or standard it is assumed that the staff is held in front of the bearer with the flag flying over his head towards the rear. The right side of the flag (normally referred to as the reverse) is on the bearer's right side, and the flag's left side (the obverse) is on the bearer's left side.

Throughout this book all German unit flags and standards-which were those carried by a bearer-will be referred to, in keeping with the German practice, by either their right or left sides. Those flags which were normally flown from a flag pole, on a ship or building will be referred to in the accepted manner as having an obverse and a reverse.

It should be further noted that on the colour plates in this book illustrating regimental flags and standards the emblem (the finial) on top of the staff faces either towards or away from the observer depending on whether the left or the right side of the flag or standard is being shown. This is deliberate. It was considered important to show these items in detail and to their best advantage. This method corresponds to that used in official German military handbooks which feature flags and standards of this type.

In practice these emblems faced forward away from the flag itself. When the flag or standard was viewed from either the left or right side the emblem on top of the staff was only seen from its left or right side, and in many cases if illustrated in this way only a very narrow side view of the emblem would be visible.

Streamers were normally illustrated in official German handbooks as lying against the left side of the flag or standard. in many cases this practice has been continued throughout this book.

Below are listed some of the more commonplace terms, with explanations, employed in the language of flags. Although they apply primarily to describing flags in the English language they can be used even when describing German national and military flags.

Active; Normally refers to the rays of a star or sun symbol, the rays of which are illustrated with undulating curves in an 'active' fashion (see also 'inactive'), Refer to 'Flag for Navy land units and Schools'.

Banner; By definition a banner is a square or rectangular heraldic flag with a design usually painted or embroidered; it is carried suspended from a cross bar flxed to an upright pole. Originally used as a standard in time of war. No banners were used in the German armed forces. Refer to 'The political-SA 'Feldherrnhalle' Standard for use by Army Infantry Regiment 271' as the nearest equivalent to a banner.

Canton; The portion of a flag, generally rectangular in shape, occupying the upper corner nearest the hoist. The canton often, but not necessarily, covered an area a quarter of the flag's size (see also 'in-canton ').
Refer to 'The National War Flag' and 'The Reich Service Flag'.

Charge; An heraldic term meaning to superimpose a device, emblem, badge etc. on a fleld of a flag.

Charged with; Means 'having placed upon it',

Collar; Thc neck chain of an order. When depicted on a flag it is often used to encircle the shield of a coat-of-arms. Refer to 'The Austrian "Hoch-und Deutschmeister" Flag for Grenadier-Regiment 134.'

Colour(s); In its singular or collective sense refers to the ceremonial flags and standards of the armed forces. In the plural can also signify the whole suite of flags worn by a ship or warship's 'Colours' are its ensign, jack and pennant. Not to be confused with colour as primary and secondary hues such as red, green, yellow, blue etc.

Colour pike; Short staff used to carry a personal field standard. Refer to 'Personal Standard for Hermann Goring as Reichsmarschall of the Greater German Reich (1st pattern)'.

Command flags; These were used by the German military in all three branches of the armed forces. In varying regulated sizes they were used on road vehicles, aircraft, ships, buildings and as field emblems to indicate the presence of scnior officers.

Device; An emblematic or heraldic drawing, design or figure.

Emblem; State or national. A design of heraldic or other symbols used by some States or nations to fulfil the function of a coat-of-arms, i.e. to epitomise the spirit or individuality of the State and to distinguish it from others. Refer to 'The National and Mercantile Flag.'

Ensign; The principal flag in a warship's suite of Colours. Flown from the ensign staff at the stern of the vessel, or when at sea from the gaff or other part of the after rigging. Sometimes refers to a personal flag or standard used as a mark of office.

Escutcheon; A shield with armorial bearings.
Refer to 'The Austrian "Hoch-und Deutschmeister" flag for Grenadier-Regiment 134' and 'The Honour Standard of the Legion Condor.'

Ferrule; A metal cap or shoe fitted over the lower end of a staff to strengthen or protect it.

Field; The basic area of a flag. It also applies to the basic colour of a flag.

Finial; A special cast or carved ornament, such as a spearhead, placed at the top of a staff.

Flag; In general any piece of cloth attached along one side to a staff or halyard, intended to fly freely in the wind and, by displaying its colours or the insignia on it, to act as a rallying-point, mark of identity, or signal. Flags are divided by their shape into several categories: rectangular or square flags, swallow-tailed, triangular flags, pennants. Flags which are intended for general use in all weathers are made of bunting which originally was a loose woven, light woollen cloth (now usually re-inforced with manmade flbre). Unit flags-and standards-intended for ceremonial use are generally made of silk. The proportions of a flag are described as the ratio of the length to the breadth; for German flags whose length was twice the breadth it was shown as I :2. In German military usage unit flags (Fahnen) were square in shape and were in general carried by foot troops.

Fly, the; The part of a flag farthest from the flag mast.

Hoist, the; The part of the flag nearest to the flag mast as opposed to the fly.

Inactive; The rays of a star or sun symbol illustrated in a stiff and inactive manner (see also 'active'). Refer to 'Command Flag for the Reich Minister for Air Travel (1st and 2nd patterns)' as well as Luftwaffe unit flags.

In Canton; Means 'in the top left-hand corner' of a flag or shield (see also 'Canton').
Refer to 'Southern Cross Emblem'.

Inescutcheon; Smaller type of heraldic shield superimposed in the centre of the fleld.
An heraldic term.

Jack; The flag flown on the jackstaff in the bows of a naval vessel. Used in this role only when the ship is at anchor or in port. In some countries it is also flown by merchant vessels. The German word for Jack is 'Gosch'.

Motto; A word or a phrase, sometimes in a classical language, inscribed on a scroll accompanying a coat-of-arms or State emblem, expressing an appropriate sentiment. Has the same purpose as a'legend'. Refer to 'Land Police Group "General Goring" Flags' and 'The Honour Standard of the Legion Condor'.

Pole, flag; A wooden or metal upright to which is attached, or from which is flown, a flag. Term used in this work to refer to non-portable flag poles.

Scroll; A long narrow riband normally displayed above or below an emblem and inscribed with a motto, slogan, legend or sentiment (see also 'Motto').

Staff, flag or standard; A wooden upright to which is attached the flag- or standardcloth. Term used in this work to refer to a portable item.

Standard; Strictly speaking a standard is a flag which 'stands by itself'. In modern usage standard has come to mean practically the same as 'banner'. In German Army usage a standard (Standarte) referred to the swallow-tailed flag carried by cavalry and motorized troops and certain motorized detachments of foot troops. The SA formation 'Standarte' is what would normally be referred to in English as a banner.

Swallow-tailed flags; Flags which have a triangular section cut out of the fly in order to make them 'forked'. Can be referred to as a 'burgee'. German Army standards had a 25cm-deep section cut out of the fly of the standard-cloth in a special shape known as a 'hussar cut'.

Truck; The disc or knob at the top of a flag pole containing the pulley over which the halyard passes allowing the flag to be raised or lowered.

Brian Leigh Davis: "Flags & Standards of the Third Reich - Army,Navy & Air Force" Arco Publishing, 1975