SHAPES OF THE STAHLHELM IN THE THIRD REICH

There were many variations in each particular type of helmet. Also there were
different colors used and texture was changed for special purposes. With the
added amount of the large selection of insignias (early and late) used, presented
hundreds of different types of German helmets. Even though some ideas were
influenced into others, there were nine basic designs.

1. Transitional

From the WW I molds, equipped with new M31 liner and strap, correct paint and insignias.

2. M35

The completely new Stahlhelm, made for a newer type warfare. Stamped all one piece and with rolled edge.

3. M42

A revised idea from the earlier model. Almost identical except the edge is unrolled and more prominent.

4. Police

Still maintains Germanic Style except for square-dip along side. Has different vent holes, liner and rivet positions. Usually lighter in weight.

5. Fireman

Same as Police model but has the addition of a comb. Comb is made either of metal, aluminum or chrome.

6. Paratrooper

Stahlhelm without a neckguard and visor. Different liner (heavily padded) and strap. Rivets are unique and with different locations.

7. Luftschutz Combat Style

Also used with Luftwaffe. Standard design with "Bead" addition running completely around base of dome. Usually lighter in weight.

8. Luftschutz Late Model

Dome is more round and has bead feature. The visor and neck guard are larger. Has different liner and vents.

9. Luftschutz Early Model

Similar design as the late model but has no bead. Liner and rivet location different and usually light weight.

Floyd R. Tubbs, STAHLHELM, Author Published, 1971

German Helmet Identifier

This chart appeared in "Der Gauleiter" back in 1990. It was sent in by Don Falk of Denver, Colorado. Don did not know the origin of the chart but he thought it was pretty good and wanted to share it with his fellow German helmet collectors. We hope you will all find it useful. If you click on the pictures they will enlarge. Bob

The Stahlhelm

WHAT AN INTERESTING STORY THIS OLD HELMET HAS TO TELL

History teaches that the German Army lost two World Wars in a period of twenty seven years. But ironically, the German nation may have gained more by losing than by winning.

In the United States there is a maxim: "It matters not whether you win or lose, but how you play the game." And it seems the German Army "played the game", well. The Allied Armies gave a begrudging tip of the hat to an enemy which refused to quit, even in the face of over-whelming numerical superiority in both wars.

Millions of soldiers fought in World War I and World War II and of them all, the German soldier alone, has emerged as the ideal soldier; brave, loyal, dedicated and efficient. There are some who feel that the defeat of the German Army in both wars was a matter of quantity over quality. That opinion is not valid, however, for a soldier can be found in every army in the world who can match the best German soldier in any quality.

Every army in existence in the world today can point with pride to a number of spectacular victories, yet the German soldier is still the worlds general choice as the ideal soldier. For this honor, if indeed it is an honor, the German soldier must give proper credit for his fame, to the man who designed his wardrobe. Allied soldiers in both World Wars cast envious eyes on the German soldiers' uniform. Psychologically, the uniform the German wore made him "feel like a warrior". At the out-break of World War II, the German army represented also the highest paid solider in the world. The best dressed and the best paid soldier and given a cause of vengeance, the German soldier of WW II in particular was a chilling example of good soldiering. Their confidence and "Espirit de Corps" carried them to the very brink of an almost impossible military accomplishment.

The most distinctive feature of the Germany army uniform in both wars is the item which has come to symbolize German militarism in even the remotest corners of the world today. . . the helmet.

Two items of World War I vintage which the German staff felt adaptable for use in the modern military techniques of World War II were a gun and a helmet. The gun, developed at the end of World War I, was inspected by the conquering Allied armies and thought to be inferior that it was ignored. It became, in World War II, known as the "88", a weapon which struck fear into the hearts of men who had to face it. The helmet was the second item which it was felt could not be improved upon. Both decisions, to reactivate the "88" and to continue with the MI6-M18 model helmet (and later modifying it) proved to be master strokes.

In a background mist, when only a soldiers' helmet showed above the fog, a German troop moved out, during World War I. An observer, seeing nothing but helmets and rifle barrels, remarked: "Damned if it doesn't seem like the helmets are going to war by themselves" .

In May, 1940, a citizen in a town in Holland pulled a corner of his curtain back and saw a soldier wearing a German helmet standing in the street nearby. His chest was constricted. The German helmet bore a terrible significance to him. In a town in Hungary, a petty government official notices that when the first German helmet appeared in town, the Communists had disappeared. With mixed emotions he regarded the odd-shaped helmets of the German Army and recognized it as a symbol of Anti-Communism. But still it was not the Hungarian helmet."Too bad, he thought," its German. I would like to put one on and go calling on some of those Socialist trouble-makers. A Russian veteran of World War I watches the Germans move through his village. He was one of millions of Russians who had surrendered to the Germans in 1915, and sat out the war in a German prisoner-of-war camp. Fighting for the Czar had not been his idea of a "cause", and he had looked upon the Germans as liberators, back then. Now he was once again looking at the familiar German helmet and he wondered if he were not dreaming. His life was better now under Stalin than it had been under Czar Nicholas, but when he needed the Germans in 1915 they couldn't come and now that he didn't want them, here they were. . . same helmets. . same men?

In London, an ex-sergeant of the British Army sat in a cinema watching a newsreel of the German invasion of Holland and cursed at the relative ease of their victory. Except for the greater mechanication, they were identical to the World War I troops. Two young men sitting beside him were engaged in conversation. One of the boys said, "Looks like we're going to be in it again. Only this time we won't take so long in doing the Germans in." The ex-sergeant laughed out loud. "That's what I thought a few years ago, kid," he said, "You'll learn to respect the German too, because he's a damned good soldier. And the back of his neck don't get wet." "What do you mean the back of his neck doesn't get wet?" . . . "It's their helmet, kid, see? It covers his ears and the back of his neck and not just from the bullets. When it rains, the water don't run down the back of his neck, under his collar. Very uncomfortable feeling, that." The German helmet has become symbolic of as many different things to people as there are people. To some, it is an arrogant symbol of ruthless power. To others, a death sign, the mark of a big bully pushing innocent women and children into a gas chamber. To some, it signifies an era of brief but glorious revenge on it's enemies. The most general emotion which the German helmet arouses in the world, though, is one of toughness. Its wearer, a faceless man who went about the business of fighting a war in a cold, unrelenting manner and one who feared nothing but instead was feared. And the helmet, because it was so different in shape from others and because it was the first thing recognize able on a soldier, and because it was the German army, became the object of fear. Incredible!

Floyd R. Tubbs, "Stahlhelm - Evolution of the German Steel Helmet", Self Published, 1971

German Steel Helmets

Ten Tips for Collectors

Investing in German steel helmets is not as easy as it once was, but there are still collectible helmets available in which the value will appreciate nicely in the future. As crazy as it sounds, a German helmet that is original to one person may not be original to another. The starting point is to define what "original" is, and then evaluate each helmet against the defined criteria. By most definitions an original helmet is one that was manufactured anytime between 1916 and 1945, has never had its liner replaced or been altered in any way since WWII and was most likely worn during that period. However, even this simple definition raises questions. Most collectors do agree that most postwar modified helmets should generally be avoided.

Differences Between Original and Postwar Modified Helmets

In terms of originality, German steel helmets fall into one of several categories. Of course, not everyone agrees which category a given helmet belongs in. The rarest is the unissued, mint conditioned helmet that was never worn during WWI or WWII. Unfortunately, some of the best of the postwar modified helmets can be mistaken for being in mint condition instead of the fabrications that they really are.

Then there is the helmet that shows wartime use but retains its original paint, liner and decals, and was never modified after the war. These are highly sought-after as they are original by any definition, their main attraction being that they are genuine pieces of history that were actually used by combat soldiers.

Helmets that were reissued during the period are another category. These were often given new paint, a new liner and new decals. This reissuing was occasionally performed in the field. The field replacement of liners, repainting and application of new decals was performed in less than ideal conditions, and these helmets sometimes look it. Again, it is unfortunate that this has opened the door for all sorts of postwar modified helmets to be passed off as "reissued". Postwar modified helmets made up of original parts are the next category. Some of these postwar modifications include the mixing of original shells and liners and the application of period decals. Many collectors do not consider these to be original even though they are made of original parts. It isn't always easy to know when a particular liner or decal was replaced. This confusion is where the definition of original becomes somewhat muddled.

Probably due to there being so many shells of "German" appearance, these helmets have never been completely reproduced. The final category contains those helmets that are easily recognizable as being modified in the postwar era. The shell and liner may be of Czechoslovakian, German, Norwegian or Spanish origin. The shell may have been made during the 1916-1945 period or after. Some of these have been repainted in camoflage patterns. The shells may have either too many or no holes for the split rivets that held these liners in place on the original German shells. Also, many of these shells ,have vent holes that differ in construction from those on the original German shells. What sets these helmets apart are the obviously fresh paint and decals and the newness of the leather liners. These liners continued to be made by West Germany for their army until about 10 years ago. Except for the use of some plastic parts, these West German helmet liners are very similar to those made in wartime.

References Define Helmet Variations

There are numerous references that define the different helmets for each branch of service and these provide excellent guidelines. Be aware that they can't possibly include every variation one may encounter. These references should be studied carefully and used to define the numerous types of German steel helmets. Those listed in this bibliography are a good place to start, and there are others as well.

Each collector should develop his own idea of originality based on careful study of the references and examining the helmets for sale at shows, flea markets, etc., and then avoid those that don't fit the criteria in some way. Just looking at them closely provides valuable experience. Using such strict critena may cause one to occasionally pass on helmets that are both original and good collectible investments. On the other hand, it will enable the collector to pass on many more that are not original. With that in mind, 10 tips for collecting German steel helmets are offered here.

Ten Buyer's Tips

1. Get a copy of Ludwig Baer's book The History of the German Steel Helmet 1916-1945. This 448-page masterpiece contains photos and descriptions of every basic type and numerous varieties of both combat and non-combat helmets. It is very well researched and is the most comprehensive reference available by far. There is much original German source material about the development of and various orders pertaining to these helmets. Although out of print again, a copy is worth its price to a true collector for the quality and quantity of information it contains.

2. Don't let the chance to buy a rare helmet affect the judging of authenticity. The rarer a helmet is, the greater the chance of its being a postwar modification. A good rule of thumb to avoid being taken advantage of is not to buy any helmet that raises even one "red flag".

3. Start by collecting basic helmets. Single decal Army and Luftwaffe helmets are fairly common and are less likely to be reproduced than double decal SS helmets. Remember that sometimes silver Army decals oxidize and turn gold over time, and can easily be mistaken for a more expensive naval (Kriegsmarine) helmet. Chemicals and heat can be used to artificially age leather liners and the shells.

4. The wear of the shell should match the wear of the liner. Be leery of all replaced liners, even if the replacement appears to have been done during the period. Also, look at the rivets that attach the shell to the liner. They should be flat against the liner band. If the rivets show evidence of being bent back and forth, consider buying a different helmet. This is true for German steel helmets from both WWI and WWII.

5. Decals should show an even, aged look and should fit tightly against the paint. Reproduction decals are usually printed on plastic, and this allows them to be identified by touch. A bubbled appearance may suggest that the shell and decal were treated with heat to simulate aging. A rubbed appearance is another good indicator of postwar application. The rubbing is done to force the decal to fit as snugly as possible. The regulation decal application procedure consisted of several steps and left very little margin for error. One indication of an original decal is "spidering," the formation of thin cracks over the surface of the decal due to age. This is often seen on party shields and red, white and black tricolor shields, but not on the metallic based ones such as the SS used. Sometimes a thin coat of lacquer was applied over the decals to protect them. This can be detected by the small amount that usually overlaps the area right around the decal. Over 50 plus years, lacquered decals tend to appear darker than the unlacquered ones. This may also be due to the particular brand of lacquer that was used.

6. The liner should fit correctly in the shell. Although all German steel helmet liners are size adjustable, the liners were made in different sizes to fit in the different sized shells. Postwar switching of liners can sometimes be detected by a poor fitting liner that is either too large or too small for the shell it is sitting in. Presumably the Germans would not normally have made this mistake. Also, the liner band should conform perfectly to the inner shell of the helmet. There should be only a very small even gap between the liner bands and the inner shell. Also, watch out for those darker colored, reddish-brown Norwegian replacement liners. The larger sized ink stamped size marking of the Norwegian liners is another characteristic of these replacements. These liners were placed into German helmets that were left behind in WWII and then used during the cold war era. Real militaria they are, but German they are not.

7. Be extremely careful of SS helmets. The rarer the helmet, the greater the chance that some enterprising individual will attempt to reproduce it in some way. According to "SS Helmets: A Collector's Guide" by Kelly Hicks, noted SS helmet collector, the only difference between a correct but freshly applied decal and a period applied SS decal is the brightness of the shield. Original decals had a metallic luster that is quite striking when seen in direct sunlight. Hicks also says that many no-decal M-42 helmets are being modified with the application of original SS decals. This can turn a $200 helmet into a helmet worth $1,200 or more. Hicks' excellent little book is filled with tips like this and some beautiful photographs of a wide yariety of SS helmets. SS helmets should be. avoided until a collector has sufficient experience or really trusts his source.

8. Be extremely careful of camouflage helmets from the Second World War. The use of camouflage paint was more common during WWI. Army orders were even issued regarding the colors and patterns of paint to be used, and these paint jobs have faded over the past 80 years. Camouflage paint schemes varied more during WWII. Today, there are many postwar-created camouflage helmets in the market, some selling for over $500. Metallic paint should never be seen on these helmets, as it is reflective and would not have been used. If the paint appears to be fresh and has been applied over old rust, it is probably a recently done fake. Rust often forms in areas where the original paint has been scratched off the shell. The older the rust, the darker its color. There should be flaking to the finish and wear to the top of the shell, as helmets were usually placed upside down on the ground during rest periods to keep dirt, mud and other debris out of the liner. Many of the camouflage helmets seen today do not display this wear on the top. Keep looking until you find one that does.

9. Get a guarantee, at least for the length of the show, or three days if the purchase is made by mail or directly from another collector. This seems to be the standard accepted practice these days and should not pose a problem. Soliciting the opinions of other collectors or a knowledgeable friend is also a good thing to do. Lifetime and one year guarantees are not offered as often as they once were. So you must learn to evaluate a prospective purchase before buying it or shortly thereafter instead of relying on the willingness of the dealer to give a refund at some future date.

10. The experienced collector knows that it is always best to buy the helmet in the best possible condition. Spending a few extra dollars now will payoff in the long run. This fact of the collector's life applies well to helmets, and is worth keeping in mind. There is a lot to know, but the fascination with these helmets increases as you learn more about them. They're fun to look at and as investments go, they are a lot more predictable than the stock market. So first get educated and then get started on your own collection.

Pete Schou, "German Steel Helmets", 1999

Feldherrnhalle Helmet Decals

REPRODUCTIONS

The distinctions between the states of Reproduction and Restoration is a very thin line - discerned only by a very simple factor, that of motive. The problem for most collectors who encounter the reproduction and/or restored item is not simply one of recognizing a motive, but in being able to confidently identify the "good" from the "bad".

As most collectors are aware, transfer decals for German steel helmets have been around for years - and they have more or less been accepted at their face value, bona fide items of restoration. The original instigators behind the manufacture of the decals were film and theatrical companies. Naturally enough wellmeaning film companies wanting to recreate scenes from WVII have been increasingly enthusiastic in achieving technical perfection among their props - the intention being to enhance their film and TV productions - in principle, quite honorable.

So far, so good: The situation, however, becomes somewhat more complex.

Whilst the operation of putting new Army decals on helmets where the old Army ones had worn off (or Luftwaffe ones where the Luftwaffe ones had been) can clearly be recognised as restoration, the action of putting SS decals on an Army helmet alters the situation.-It becomes more properly a case of Reproduction or embellishment, than it does "restoring". All this, of course, is just another headache for the collector who continues to be bemused and confused by it all.

Just to give the collector a bit of an edge against the situation in which he increasingly finds himself, "Der GAULEITER" presents a guide to instant recognition of a particularly troublesome decal - the SA Feldherrnhalle decal. The troublesome part about it is that most collecotrs have never seen an original which they may compare against - and that is what makes it easy for the reproduction to move about undetected.

Firstly a short note about the originals:

Special helmet insignia for the SA Standarte Feldherrnhalle was apparently authorised in 1936, when the Standarte was officially consecrated. In principle the Feldherrnhalle was supposed to undertake special guard and protection duties for high officials of the Party and the SA that were not already being undertaken by the SS. In fact sometime before the official establishment of the Feldherrnhalle special SA elite guard units were in existence, and subsequently they had borne their own special insignia. The Feldherrnhalle had taken its name from the monument that stands in Munich, and which had been the scene of the famed illfated putsch of 1923. In commemoration of this the helmet decal as introduced in 1936 featuring a design this monument in silver on a dark magenta field, and this was featured on the left side of the helmet. On the right side the shield shaped decal featured a swastika on a silver field.

IDENTIFYING THE REPRODUCTION Generally speaking there is no hard and fast rule for identifying reproduction decals - especially when the printed images are copied from originals instead of artwork replicas, and when the reproduction technique involved uses the same matt base inks instead of the more commonly encountered gloss finish as featured on many of the Belgian copies. With the Feldherrnhalle pattern, however, the manufacturer was thoughtful enough to incorporate a specific design error, and this makes it impossible to completely mistake the reproduction for the original.

Left side Feldherrnhalle shield: The mistake on this is that the color of the base field (dark magenta) is too dark in color, and the detail to the lion statues at the sides of the steps, incorrect shaping to the archwawys and paneling of the roof line.

Right side shield: This features a most clearly recognisable flaw, in the coloring, and which can not be mistaken. The reproduction displays a black swastika with black and white edging on a white field within a pink/maroon circle in a silver shield; as opposed to the correct style of a black swastika with white edging in a dark grey field within a pink/maroon circle in a silver shield.

The color of the steel helmet (M1936 pattern) was a chocolate brown, except for those personnel who subsequently wore the normal Army grey/green helmet without decal. but with the distinctive Feldherrnhalle cuff title and shoulder strap insignia.

Editor's note: Mr. Stephens is the author of REPRODUCTION-RECOGNITION and HITLER YOUTH-History, Organization, Uniforms and Insignia. DG wishes to express our thanks to him for generously providing this information to our readers.

Frederick J. Stevens: "REPRODUCTIONS: THE FELDHERRNHALLE HElMET DECALS", 1977, "Der Gauleiter