Hitler Youth Belts and Buckles

1937-1938

The new HJ leaders’ buckle and special leather gear was authorized for wear by the following with an entry dated April l, 1937: (a) Leaders with the rank of HJ-Bannfuhrer and upwards (including "Verwaltungsbannfuhrer" which were administrators/managers): being DJ-Jungbannfdhren HJ-Obcrbannfiihrerg DJ-Oberjungbannfuhren HJ-Gebietsfuhrer; DJ-Gebietsjungvolkfuhrer; HJ-Obergebietsfuhrer, as well as appointed Stabsfuhrer (mainly with the RJF).(b) Appointed leaders ranking lower than H.J.-Bannfuhrer, being leaders of a"Bann" unit (function being "Fuhrer von Bannen"), department leaders of an area (Abteilungsleiter der Gebiete), staff leaders from an area (Stabsleiter der Gebiete), RJF main consultants (Hauptreferenten der RJF), deputy department chiefs (stellv. Amtschefs) and leaders of area leaders’ schools (Leiter der Gebietsfuhrer schulen).

Initially, it was planned that adjutants for a "Gebiets- und Gebietsjungvolkfuhrer" were also to wear the leaders’ belt and buckle. But in the course of early 1937 this position was withdrawn from the list (the intricate rank and function system caused a re-organization in late 1938 (consult this note and note 26 for a better understanding of the situation)).

"HJ-Fuhrerkoppelschloss/Feldbindenschl0ss" description, 1936:

The Hitler Youth leaders’ buckle was round and made of tempered aluminum sheet or an aluminum sheet alloy (Al-Mg-Si DIN1713, called "legiertem Aluminiumblech"), which was first copper-plated and then matte-silvered or nickled with the appropriate design as the inset for the regular HJ buckle. Around the upper rope design is a raised, smooth 3.0mm wide edge which gives the disc an approximate diameter of 5.0cm. The relief details of the buckle are somewhat higher. The eagle has a robust look, especially its head, as well as the "Blut und Ehre"motto. The HJ diamond touches the lower rope design. The outer edge, the eagle and the HJ diamond were all highly polished. All HJ leaders’ buckles were stamped and show the design relief on the reverse, where the catch should always have the "M4/22" RZM c0de for the manufacturer C. Th. Dicke.

The fitting with the rotating prongs which fit in the holes of the leather belt to make it adjustable, is positioned at the left (as seen by the viewer). A leather tongue is also found on the reverse of the belt. On this style belt the buckle is sewn on the right side of the belt. When the buckle, however, is loose and includes the fitting with the rotating prongs, this is located on the left side and the keeper is sewn to the belt. The buckle was designed to carry a weight of 60kg.

"HJ-Fuhrerlederzeug" description,1936:

The manufacturing and material for this approximately 4.4cm wide black belt, with a 3.5mm thickness, is similar as that described for the 1933/1936 enlisted ranks belt. The applied paint had to be light and waterproof, and had to be scuff resistant. The earliest leader’s belts were backed with a mixed brown cloth or a felt-like material. The belt tip at left was somewhat rounded and on the reverse a natural colored leather tongue was sewn on. The size and position of this tongue is basically the same as for enlisted ranks, but in most cases was sewn on with twelve stitches which had a length of 5.0cm. The tip of the tongue is positioned approximately 1.5cm from the tip of the belt. Two 1.6cm wide leather slides are positioned on the belt, the back of which are joined by two stitches.

Two 2.4cm wide slides with a sewn—on D-ring are slid on the belt for fastening the 2.4cm wide shoulder belt which is 2.5mm thick. The manufacturing style and material used was as described earlier. Between the sliding clasp and the snaphook on the shoulder belt, a small leather slide was positioned. This slide was 1.2cm wide and was sewn together on the back with two stitches. The earliest shoulder belts were also backed, and the fittings were not pebbled (as yet).

Early belts often had a small piece of natural colored leather, approximately 17.0 cm long and 2.0cm wide, sewn onto the inside middle-back of the belt. The ends of this piece of leather are almost as wide as the inside belt width. Over this, a smaller form of slide was fastened which prevented the shoulder belt from moving out of position. These belts were costly and for this reason most often a belt with adjustable slides was chosen. To protect the tunic from buckle-keeper damage, a "Rockschoner" (also known as"Schlossunterlage") was available. It consisted of a piece of leather (approximately 6.5 x 4.5cm) which fit over the belt. This protective device was meant for belts of enlisted ranks but was often worn by leaders of various organizations.

Per Reichsjugendfuhrer orders, some additional ranks were introduced and rank designations changed with the April 20, 1937 entry. These individuals were permitted to wear the leader’s belt and buckle: HJ-Hauptbannfuhrer and DJ-Hauptungbannfuhrer (formerly DJ-Gebietsjungvollgfuhrer). Simultaneously, all leaders (Bannfuhrer through Stabsfuhrer) were the HJ-Fuhrerkorps which was the official name for the leadership corps and staff (Note: this should not be confused with the HJ-Fuhrerschaf who were mid-level leaders). The mid-level ranks, Gefolgschafisfuhrer through Oberstammfuhrer, were not permitted to wear the leader’s buckle. This was changed, however, in late 1938. The Fuhrerschaft and Fuhrerkorps system was also changed once more at a later date.

The most striking change for the DJ organization was the abolishment of their buckle with rune device by an order published on June 4, 1937. The regular HJ buckle was to be worn instead, while the DJ buckle was allowed for wear until December 31, 1937. Manufacturers and retailers had already been informed of this regulation as early as late fall 1936. Those manufacturers who had large stocks of DJ buckles found it impossibleto sell them all before the December1937 deadline. It had not been the intention of the Reichsjugendfurung to cause loss of money or materials by means of scrapping the buckles. On the other hand the numerous DJ members were not forced to buy a new 4.5cm HJ buckle either. With some thought the solution was simple. A HJ inset could be soldered directly over the rune and then the buckle could be renickled. This process was carried out by three firms from Ludenscheid during the months of March and April 1938. Smaller size DJ buckles or those with varying runes were not to be part of this altering process. These smaller buckles were referred to as Kinder-kappelschldsser (buckles for children) and were never considered a regulation size.

The three firms to receive the above contract were:

HJ areas 1-9: EW. Assmann & Sohne.
HJ areas 10-17: C.Th. Dicke.
HJ areas 18-26: Overhoff & Cie

During the course of 1937 RZM standards for manufacturing buckles were somewhat lessened. This caused an uncontrolled growth in non-regulation buckles and lower quality, some of which were produced by various manufacturers who did not even have RZM permission. This came to a halt in November 1938 when the RZM issued an order stating that manufacturing permission must be granted only by the RZM.

Orders dated September 30, 1938 radically changed the recently initiated HJ and DJ uniform regulations. This was due to a general re-organization to be in effect on October 1. Specific orders listed what would be worn and when the enlisted ranks, plus low and mid-level leaders would wear the summer service dress, were the guard unit Wachgefolgschaft "Baldur von Schirach" and professional drivers in the service of the HJ organization. Additional orders were issued for the Naval -HJ (which included a so-called Fahrtenanzug worn by DJ members dur-ing a transitional period), extra summer and winter uniforms for the Motor—HJ known as Fuss- and Fahrdienstanzug (worn when on foot or when driving), and for the Flieger—HJ known as the Fussdress. The term Flugdienstanzug (dress for flying) was used instead of Fahrdienstanzug. All of the above orders did not, however, affect the wear of the HJ buckle with black belt and shoulderbelt.

Simultaneously with the above orders a significant addition was also announced. Now, a brocade belt was authorized for wear by higher-ranked leaders. HJ leaders who wore aluminum wire embroidered shoulder straps were to wear an aluminum brocade belt and aluminum leader’s buckle. Those with gold wire embroidery wore a gold brocade belt with gold leader’s buckle. This HJ brocade belt may have been initially thought of as a form of award for services rendered to the organization in February 1938 when von Schirach announced special schooling for the HJ-Fuhrerkorps. During the next few months plans were initialized and in May and June of 1938 the brocade belt was informally wom by HJ leaders during visits abroad, notably in Italy.

Wilhelm P.B.R. Saris assisted by Jeff Hammond,"Hitler Youth, Belts and Brocades (1926-1945) Part II", The Military Advisor, 2001

bender-publishing.com

RAD Belt and Buckles

The main subject of this article is the development of belts and brocade belts for the male lower-level (Untere fairer: Vormann through and including Unterfeldmeister), middle-class (Mittlere fairer: Feldmeister through and including Oberstfeldmeister) and higher ranked officers (Hoherefuhrer: Arbeitsfuhrer through and including Reichsarbeitsfuhrer) from the Reichsarbeitsdienst (further referred to as RAD) between 1934 and 1945 (see note for explanation). The subject of females is not included, but one specific female uniform is mentioned.

Dozens of Arbeitsdienst organizations (further referred to as AD: labor organizations) were formed by left and rightwing political organizations, sports clubs and religious groups from 1931. In 1933 most of them were dissolved or absorbed into the most important labor organizations: the Staatlicher Anhaltischer Arbeitsdienst; the Stahlhelm-Arbeitsdienstand the Verein zur Umschulung freiwilliger Arbeitskrufte (VzU), the earliest true Nazi labor organization. The last two were the embryo of the registered Nat. Soz. Arbeitsdienstthat (NSAD) which was an NSDAP organization from May 3, 1934. The NSAD was short-lived. On June 26,1935 the Reichsarbeitsdienstgesetz (National Labor Service Law) was proclaimed and the AD was renamed Reichsarbeitsdienst. On September 12,1935 the "old AD'' marched for the last time during the NSDAP Party Day rally at Nurnberg. In a speech, Adolf Hitler officially said "farewell'' to the Freiwilliger Arbeitsdienst (FAD).

Because of the many organizations, a wide variety of labor uniforms was worn as well as many buckles and one or double-claw pattern buckles. In early 1933 plans were begun to standardize the color and style of the AD uniforms. In September the color for the new uniform, referred to as Einheitstracht, was officially announced. It was intended to be worn by all members, to include the enlisted ranks as well as officers. Reichsarbeitsfuhrer Konstantin Hierl was the first person to wear the new uniform during the 1933 NSDAP PartyDay rally, the Reichsparteitag des Glaubens. The further introduction of the various uniform parts was scheduled for late 1933, to be worn from 1934.

Many buckle types (and belts) from the dominant Freiwilliger Arbeitsdienst are known to the collecting world. These various forms will not be discussed in this article. Also not discussed will be those worn by the Staatlicher Anhaltischer Arbeitsdienst, the Stahlhelm-Arbeitsdienst or the VzU. Later, the author may return to these interesting subjects.

AD Buckle Description, 1933:

The only official AD belt buckle from 1933 is mentioned as this was worn by lower class officers as well. This rectangular one-piece buckle, worn with a brown belt, is approximately 4.7 x6.3cm and is made of Neusilber (for explanation, see article "Hitler Youth, Belts and Brocades," part 1 "TheMilitary Advisor" Vol. 12, No. 1). In dull silver, it was meant for the walking out dress. The field of the buckle is pebbled and features a flat-edged spade, flanked by wheat at a 45 degree angle on each side. This motif is surrounded by a circle with an approximately 4.3cm diameter. The inner field of the circle is pebbled also. This pattern was manufactured by various firms. The main manufacturers including the designer of this pattern - the F.W. Assmann & Sohne concern (article#21766); Wilhelm Schroeder (article #7021); Steinhauer & Luck (article # K9479) Berg & Nolte A.G.; Overhoff & Cie and Paulmann & Crone, all from Ludenscheid. Additionally, other firms manufactured this official pattern.

The iron one-piece buckle with the same motif, but not having a pebbled field outside the ring, was painted field grey and was the buckle to be worn with the service or working dress (note: the field-grey version was manufactured with a pebbled outer field also). The main manufacturers of this type of buckle were: F.W. Assmann concern, and also Friedrich Linden (article # 4779). It should be stressed that the above buckles were the only official versions. Persons of a lower ranked function wore a brown belt with a shoulder belt. Higher ranked officers were ordered to wear the brown belt and shoulder belt, but with an open double-claw buckle instead of the rectangular one. Many photographs show that enlisted ranks also wore a shoulder belt. This was due to the fact that within many organizations, for example, the Stahlhelm-Arbeisdienst, the Staatlicher Anhaltischer Arbeitsdienst, as well as the VzU (the Nazi AD organization), such belts were commonly worn.

1933-1936:

Details for the new AD uniforms were published in orders dated October 16 and November 2, 1933. In these orders the belt, shoulder belt and the belt and shoulder belt trim set (see note) were mentioned. This was soon followed by detailed descriptions and samples which were supplied to all Gauleitungen, to be kept at the Musterkammer (the Chamberof Samples). The above mentioned rectangular buckles were officially abolished with an order dated December 14,1933. The new items had to be worn in early 1934. Supplying, however, was a step by step process, and thus the rectangular buckle continued to be worn for some time, even into 1935.

AD Belt and Buckle, 1934:

It is not this author's intention to burden the readers of "Military Advisor" with another listing of procedures and details, as all this information is given in the 1936 specifications. The 4.5cm wide belt was a darker brown for enlisted ranks and a lighter brown for higher ranked officers. Enlisted ranks, as well as lower and higher ranked officers,were ordered to wear the same matte, silver pebbled (wildmatt) claw buckle with an approximate 4.6 x 6.2cm size. Two official patterns exist: one having the inner-claw which cannot be moved; the other has a movable inner-claw. The main manufacturers again were F.W. Assmann & Sohne and Overhoff & Cie from Ludenscheid. Period photographs indicate that higher ranked officers wore larger open-claw buckles. This was basically contrary to the new regulations.

Persons with a lower ranked function (Unterfuhrer), as well as higher ranked officers (Fuhrer), persons with the ranks of Unterfeldmeister and upwards, as well as musicians (Musik-and Obermusikmeister, as well as Musikinspizient),were authorized to wear the belt with shoulder belt. They had to obtain this set of items at their own expense. The wear of the belt with claw buckle and shoulder strap was also permitted by those who were granted to wear a uniform, for example, on most occasions by honorary ranked individuals and doctors. Enlisted ranks were supplied from RAD (and earlier FAD) stocks.

RAD members, attending the 1935 Party Day rally, were ordered to wear the brown belt, with the new belt buckle pattern, which would be officially introduced for all in early 1936. This buckle, designed by the well-known Egon Jantke from Berlin, was produced quickly and stocks kept at an Arbeitsgau. The formerly used materials such as Neusilber were officially forbidden to be used after April 1935 for a number of products. Manufacturers scurried to find a cheap and simple production process,and came up with the use of aluminum and other light-weight metals. These materials were commonly used from early 1936 for the manufacture of many kinds of products. The RAD was one of the first organizations to use buckles made from these materials. An order dated December 19, 1935, ordered the ranks of Generalarbeitsfuhrer, Obergeneralarbeitsfuhrer and the Reichsarbeitsfuhrer to wear a gold double-claw buckle and gold trim set. Continued....

If you wish to read the rest of this article and many other interesting articles, you can subscribe to the MILITARY ADVISOR. Subscriptions are available at: bender-publishing.com

Wilhelm P.B.R. Saris, "Reicharbeitsdienst Belts and Brocade Belts", "The Military Advisor", 2004

Introduction to Belt Buckles

Most of the regulations cited in the pages that follow deal primarily with the introduction of the buckle, the condition for wear, the nature of the belt, sometimes reference to type of metal construction and design, but rarely definitive information concerning manufacture or marking. Most of this latter information has been derived from observation and admitted conjecture. During my travels throughout Germany visiting some of the still existing firms, I found that manufacturing techniques, while usually consistent throughout the industry, varied as did the metals used, depending on the year of production.

The text relative to specific buckles is broken down into sub-sections dealing with military, political, civil and unidentified/prototype/points of interest. A code precedes each buckle for the purpose of continued identification. The structure of the code is as follows, reading from left to right: the first number at the left identifies which of the four sub-sections the buckle falls into, eg., 1- military, 2 - political, 3 - civil and 4 - miscellaneous. The second number (and possibly the third) represents the specific organization with the sub-section, eg., under military 1 - Army, 2 - Landwehr (alleged), 3 - Navy, 4 - Air Force. The number within the parentheses represents the pattern sequence within the specific organization. The number after the period represents the Reid reference number as found in German Belt Buckles 1919-1945. For a more detailed breakdown, refer to the index.

I do not wish to give the impression that this buckle coverage is the "be all and end all" on the subject, as there are other buckles that were produced for which we have no data, variations that are yet unencountered, information that has yet to be made available, etc. If you should have a pattern that is not described here, or information that might serve to further inform or correct, it would be greatly appreciated if you would provide it for future release. Any material provided will be credited.

I will remain consistent as with my previous references by not placing a current value on buckles. Values vary from one location to the next, and are subject to increases with inflation. I have indicated, however, the relative rarity of buckles in some 6 cases.

It becomes rather obvious that there is little or no discussion relative to reproductions. Except in obvious cases, I do not consider myself "expert" enough to provide a scholarly discourse on the subject. The best advice regarding this matter is to know your source, and "let your gut feeling be your guide."

BUCKLE MANUFACTURE

Belt buckles produced during the period 1933-1945 were not unique in concept, but were unique in many cases in the manner in which they were produced. The German states and some organizations had long used the belt buckle to partially identify the wearer with the organization or state to which he belonged. Hitler expanded considerably on this practice with virtually every military, political and civil organization given authorization to wear a uniquely designed buckle. This attention to detail where a uniform accouterment was concerned was not without purpose since it was Hitler's intent to use every device possible to further advance the recognition and cause of national socialism. Hitler's grasp of psychological motivational techniques was astounding. Considerable attention to detail went into each design, often with Hitler playing an active role. Buckle production and resultant sales, as with virtually every aspect of Nazi regalia, provided a much needed infusion of capital into the German economy which had been reeling under heavy unemployment and unchecked inflation. Lack of controls coupled with a relatively simple production technique gave rise to many "mom and pop" operations - those family operations that produced with a minimum of equipment and overhead, and serving either as a retail source or providing the finished work to a retailer. In 1933 the creation of the Reichszeugmeisterie (RZM) served to allow controls over the production of NSDAP uniform material. The headquarters of the RZM, located in Munich, assembled regulatory notices and distributed them in the weekly journal Mitte/ungsblatt der Reichszeugmeisterie. Specific details were provided as to the exact measurements, pattern design, metal construction, etc. Pattern pieces were produced and made available by the RZM by which the manufacturers could compare their finished products.

With the established firms, production was largely one of mass production where dies, presses and assemblers were brought into play. Smaller jobbers often had to resort to a greater degree of hand work, turning out fewer finished pieces in a long work day. As techniques improved and raw materials became more difficult to obtain as a result of the war effort, metals transitioned from the basic brass and iron, to aluminum to pot metal, and the presses later shared production with the injection molds. The drop forge and die technique was used until the end of the war. The following study in the buckle reverse gives some insight as to the degree of hand work and the changes that took place from 1933-1945.

J.R. Angolia: "Belt Buckles & Brocades of the Third Reich", 1982, R. James Bender Publishing

Bender-Publishing.com

Uniforms of the Reich Order Police

Tunic (Waffenrock):

The Waffenrock was of police-green wool fabric, and dark brown badge cloth collar and cuffs. The collar, top of the cuff, down the left front of the closure, and about the tail panels were piped in light green. The front was secured by eight pebbled aluminum-colored 18mm diameter buttons. The collar was secured by two or three black hooks-and-eyes. Mirror image collar patches, with the background indicating the service branch (light green for Schutzpolizei), were positioned with the leading edge 3mm back from the front collar edge. The two angled pleated patch breast pockets and two hip unpleated straight patch pockets were with scalloped flaps buttoned by 18mm diameter pebbled aluminum-colored buttons. The rear tail panels were with two 18mm diameter pebbled aluminum-colored buttons, the top two serving as belt ramps. The shoulder boards were of the sew-in or slip-on variety, and were secured by 16mm diameter buttons. In the event the shoulder boards were of the slip-on type, there was a strip of tunic fabric sewn horizontal to the sleeve headseam. The police national emblem was worn on the upper left sleeve, while any specialty insignia was worn on the lower left. Two parallel aluminum rings, each 1omm wide, worn above the top of the cuffs, indicated NCOs appointed to the position of company first sergeant (nicknamed "del' Spiess"). For details of other insignia, see the respective chapter. The cuffs were normally sewn closed at the rear seam, but tailor preference allowed for an open seam secured by the cuff buttons. With secured cuffs two 18mm pebbled aluminum-colored buttons were positioned at the rear of the front cuff panel. However, when the rear seam was open, the rear of the front panel was with two buttonholes, and the buttons were sewn to the rear of the rear panel. There was a concealed interior pocket on the left breast, and a concealed pocket at each tail panel. Size markings and possible tailor or control marks were commonly found stamped on either the right or left front interior lining.

Wartime tunics could have the side straps fitted with metal hooks passing through the side-seam opening to serve as belt ramps. A light-weight Waffenrock was also authorized for wear.

-Neck tie (Halsbinde): Black worn with white collar.

- Breeches (Stiefelhose): Standard pattern police green breeches. Riding breeches with reinforced leather seat (Reithose) for mounted personnel.

- Gloves (Handschuhe): Grey-green.

- Boots (Schaftstiefel): Black leather. Riding boots for mounted personnel.

- Spurs (Sporen): Worn by officers only in the rank of Hauptmann and above, and by all mounted officers.

- Greatcoat (Mantel): The same pattern greatcoat was worn by all ranks. Rank shoulder boards were of the sew-in variety. No collar patches or police national sleeve insigne were worn. It was of the police-green uniform cloth with brown collar piped in light green. The double-breasted coat was with two vertical rows of six pebbled aluminum-colored (gold for general officers) buttons. The concealed hip pockets were angled-slashed and had rounded unbuttoned flaps. At the left side is a slash for the sword hanger. The sleeve cuffs were indicated by a stitched seam only on privately tailored coats, and by turned-up (un-piped) cuff on issue coats. The collar was closed by a single hook-and-eye, normally backed by a piece of protective cloth. Under the left collar is a cloth tab with buttonhole, and held in place by a single green button. On the right collar was a single green button for securing the opposite tab when the collar was worn closed. At the back was a two-part cloth belt with two pebbled aluminum buttons on the horizontal. A seam ran down the center back, and with a slash from the bottom of the cloth belt down. The slash opening was secured by four evenly spaced buttons. The interior of the coat was with a concealed slash breast pocket on the left side. A large green button was sewn to the left side to secure the right side of the coat. It was quite common to find size markings and even tailor data stamped inside on the left lining fabric.

Persons authorized to wear a neck decoration were permitted to wear the greatcoat with the top two buttons unbuttoned, and the lapels folded back in order to display the decoration.Raincoats could be worn in place of greatcoats in wet weather.

- Belt (Leibriemen): Black leather with double open-claw silvercolored pebble buckle and shoulder strap for officers. Black leather with aluminum-colored box buckle and rifle three-compartment ammunition pouch on the left side, and black pistol holster on the right side. Mounted personnel were authorized to wear the mounted bandoleer. For details, see coverage of belt buckles in a later volume in this series.

- Sidearm: Sword with portepee (for details, see chapter dealing with blade sidearms in a future volume in this series). Pistol with holster (all ranks) worn on the right side.

-Medal Bar/Ribbon Bar (Grosse und Kleine Ordensschnalle): Neck orders and breast stars were also authorized for wear.

John R. Angolia and Hugh Page Taylor, "Uniforms, Organization & History of the Geman Police - Volume 1", 2004, R. James Bender Publishing

Bender-Publishing.com

The German Army Buckle

The newly introduced Heer buckle of 1935 retained the same basic design as the Reichsheer buckle, but with the introduction of the eagle clutching the swastika to replace the eagle of the Reichsheer. The eagle on the early specimen buckles faced to the viewer's right, but for some unexplained reason early in 1936 the buckle appeared with the eagle facing left. In March 1936 new regulations concerning the Reichsadler (national eagle) were introduced and in 1937 the eagle returned to the form looking right. Specimen illustrated above is the short-lived example facing to the viewer's left. Initial uniform regulations H.DV. 122 8/7 1935 required that the buckle be of a bright metal worn on a brown leather belt (the same regulations also called for a black leather belt for special occasions, but it did not further specify). It came in both the 45mm and 40mm sizes. The bright metal buckle was worn only with the parade or walking-out dress uniform.

The introductory order for the new army buckle was dated 24.1.1936 (HVBlatt 1936, Nr. 114), and further stated that the old pattern buckles (Weimar pattern) had to be used up. This use period, however, was probably short-lived because of the tendancy to show the swastika eagle as a state symbol was very pronounced. Supplement 100 of Nr. 60 of H.Dv. 122 Abschnitt A described the buckle in detail - "Dull grey buckle stamped out of light metal (aluminum alloy), 1.3mm thick, 6.4cm long and on the inner side 4.85cm wide. Stamped on the front side the Wehrmacht eagle as on the steel helmet - eagle looking to the left (to the viewer's right) - around the eagle the motto "GOTT M IT UNS" (God with us) and oak leaf branches. The color of the buckle to be the same as the color of the buttons. For privately purchased belts (lacquered or patent leather), belt buckles made of white colored aluminum alloy are allowed." The buckle described in Supplement 100 replaced a buckle of the following description -

"Dull grey buckle made of lmm thick 'neusilber,' 6.2cm long, on the inner side 4.5cm wide; shield diameter 4.2cm; Reichsadler (Weimar eagle) with GOTT MIT UNS and laurel branches. With privately purchased uniforms, a silver colored buckle." A leather "Widerhalt" (support for the right ammunition pouch) was also worn, but was discontinued, probably sometime after 1939.

It is interesting to note that, in addition to the change in the eagle, the laurel leaf wreath of the Weimar buckle was changed to oak leaves, a symbol of strength.

11(5).55c Heer: In 1936 a dull finished buckle was introduced to be worn with the service or combat uniform, but still retained the eagle facing left. However, it should be noted that the Overhoff & Cie. sales catalog dated 1935 depicted a buckle designated Dienstschloss 0718 which was finished in field-grey.

11(6).55 Heer: The Wehrmacht adler on the buckle was changed again in 1937 causing the eagle to face to the viewer's right. The bright buckle was worn with the parade or walking-out dress uniform, whereas the dull buckle was worn with the service or combat uniform. Example shown above measures 45mm.

11(7).55 Heer: Standard pattern 1937 Heer buckle with the eagle facing right, but measuring 40mm. This size buckle was only worn with the parade or walking-out dress uniform.

J.R. Angolia: "Belt Buckles & Brocades of the Third Reich", 1982.

R. James Bender Publishing

Buckles and their Manufacture

The manufacture of the Koppelschloss, or belt buckle is a simple process. So simple in fact, that many of the companies certified by the RZM were family or one-man or­ganizations. Many companies had the master dies cut by a larger concern, thus eliminating the need for the most expensive labor and equipment. Because of the availability of government (RZM) contracts to small companies, financial aid was more accessable than any time before.

Buckles during the period in question were stamped from a number of stocks or metals. The most common was brass, an alloy of copper and tin. This popularity was due to its low price and its similarity in color to gold. The stock was usually c.2.5mm thick, although some thicker var­ieties were used in the 1919-1933 period. A metal which first came into use for buckles after 1933 was an alloy of aluminum. The color of this alloy varies from silver-white to grey depending upon the amount of base metal added. In the case of alloys approved by the RZM, the purer white is prevalent. The most attractive metal, used almost always for leader's buckles was nickel-silver. The name is mislead­ing since the alloy contains nickel, zinc, and copper. This alloy takes a high polish and looks very much like silver. Iron was used (not steel) for many buckles which were to be plated or painted. The last of the metals was a base alloy called pot metal. It is made of some copper and much lead, and was used in buckles which were cast or injection molded.

The metal was cut into sheets of the proper size and placed in a die. These dies consisted of one into which the design had been engraved, and one upon which the design was cut in relief, or standing out. The lat­ter die pushed the metal into the incised areas of the engraved die, thus the finished buckle has a raised re­lief on the outside and a reversed (mirror image) on the inside. Naturally the quality and age of the dies have considerable effect on the strike or image on the finish­ed product. Like coins, some buckles are weak or indis­tinct due to die deficiencies. These are seldom worthy of the collector's attention.

A few buckles approved by the RZM late in the war were injection molded using pot metal. They are easily recognized by their slate grey color. Usually these were spray painted with silver paint. They will not lighten in color if cleaned or polished, but rather acquire a dull gloss. They are also discernable by their flat reverse side, on which no image of the design appears. Usually four circular areas will show where the hot metal entered the die. Their intrest lies not in their quality, but in their post 1942 production. The commonest pot metal buckles found are the Hitler Jugend, the Hitler Jugend Leader, and the Politische Leiter 60mm.

Four types of catches were used on the rectangular (enlisted type) buckle. Type I is used only in conjunction with a soldered inset. It is simply a depressed slot in the metal. Type II is the commonest, and is a ([) shaped bar secured to the reverse of the buckle by brazing,or in the case of Type IIa, by spotwelding. Type III is found on aluminum and pot metal buckles, and is a protuberance in the metal with a slot drilled for the catch. Type IV is not often encountered. It is a notched bar which fits into two holes in the sides of the buckle. Although it appears to be a 'home made' variety, some RZM proofed DAF buckles are seen with this catch. They are usually made by C. Th. Dicke Co. (M4/22). It is surprising the RZM would have approved such a departure from the norm.

The post and prongs used to attach the buckle to the belt are by their nature highly standardized. Only two varieties exist. The earlier type chronologically is more difficult to produce, and was discontinued around 1930. The prongs are a single piece of metal brazed to a tube, through which the bar passes. The other type attaches the prongs, once again a single piece of metal, to the bar by means of a loose fitting mechanism of pre-formed sheet stock. This type of construction was introduced c.19l6 to aid in mass production. The transition was not rapid, however, many SA buckles manufactured during the late 20's used the earlier style of construction. This is one positive way to identify earlier pieces. The latest use of the brazed prong mechanism was on round leader's buckles made of nickel silver
alloy c.1936. It was last used on rectangular buckles in the late 20's or very early 30's.

The attachment of insets to buckles follows a similar genesis. Very early c.1871 buckles have insets soldered to the buckle through four holes. By the time of the First World War, the number of holes had decreased to two. SA buckles with silver insets are attached in this way. The attach­ment of insets with solder declined with the advent of the aluminum alloy buckle. Many companies in addition to solid stamped aluminum buckles offered at a lower price buckles with paper-thin insets attached by tabs. These tabs were a part of the inset and passed through slots in the buckle to be bradded or simply bent over. No buckle approved by the RZM was manufactured in this way. The difference in the wholesale price was often as little as 15pf (US 4¢), and why anyone would have been tempted to forego quality for such an amount escapes the modern observer. Buckles of the Luftwaffe and the Reichsheer are frequently of this type. As a method of manufacture, this lends itself particularly well to mass production, since all buckle blanks could be made the same. The late Type III Reichs Luftschutz Bund buckle was produced this way exclusively.

Round leader's buckles fall into three major manufac­ture varieties. The first type encompasses the period 1870 to 1945. Type I buckles are stamped or cast and the catch and prong-bar keeper added by brazing. This method is not particularly well suited for mass production, but is seen in very late pieces nevertheless. The second and most prevalent type was manufactured in two parts. The face of the buckle was stamped with a wide flange around the outer edge. This flange was crimped around a perforated disc which served as the catch and as a keeper for the prong-bar. The third method was used with pot metal. The catch and keeper was fitted into a depression on the flat reverse of the buckle and attached by solder. All three methods were approved by the RZM at one time or another. Types I and III are the favorites of reproducers since they require less sophisticated equipment.

Officer's buckles exist without prongs on either side of the buckle. They are designed for use on brocade belts. The right hand side of the catch (the removable side) is sewn onto the belt. The buckle is attached to the other side by means of a loop in the belt. This loop terminates in a hook which can be secured to several grommets on the inside of the belt, thus making it adjustable.Frequent examples of this are Reichsheer, Luftwaffe, and RLB buckles.
It was not a method approved by the RZM.

All officer's belts, both leather and brocade, were fitted with two runners, one slightly larger than the other. Since these fittings are loose on the belt, they frequently are missing. All leader's belts approved by the RZM were marked L5/.The first two numbers are the manufacturer code, the second, the year of manufacture. Other markings found on belts are 'KERNSTUCK', '90', and '95-115'. The first is indicitive of high quality leather. The second and third are belt sizes, and may range from 75(cm) to 115. They are often noted from the smallest to the largest possible adjust-
ment, e.g., 95-115.

There are a multitude of finishes found on buckles. In the order of their quality, they are gold plating, silver plating, nickel plating, silver or gold wash, silver paint, and various enamel painted finishes. There was too much variation among companies to pin point anything about this.

Thomas Reid and John Nauer:"German Belt Buckles 1919-1945", The Montrose Press, 1974