Third Reich Regalia - Luftwaffe Flying Badges

In recent months, interest in Luftwaffe flying badges has sky-rocketed. Consequently, this increase in demand has resulted in a sharp surge in the value of these pieces and unfortunately, a flood of reproductions. The most widely copied of the Luftwaffe flying badges are the pilot's badges. A true expose of the forgeries currently being circulated would require a massive amount of detailed information to be of any true value. Therefore an attempt is made here to supply the collector with several guidelines he may utilize to determine the originality of a pilot's badge. However, at the risk of sounding a bit trite, I feel it must be mentioned that the basic tool one must develope and cultivate is a keen eye to detail and workmanship. This asset must be fostered by the collector if he wishes to succeed in assembling a repro free representation of Third Reich regalia of any type. Even though the products of 1935 to 1945 Germany were not manufactured for the exacting eye of a collector, they do for the most part, reflect an earlier era of the machine age. Detail work was expected of the master engravers of prewar Germany and should be found on any product manufactured during the period. If one must make an excuse for the quality of a pilot's badge he is better off to pass, even if the piece is not a repro, the best investment is in better quality.

The Luftwaffe pilot's badge was awarded in two grades. The basic badge depicts a flying silver eagle imposed upon an oval silver wreath. The wreath is the distinctive feature of the badge. The higher grade or pilot—observer badge is the same essential design as the pilot, but the wreath is gold plated as opposed to the silver used in the basic grade. Therefore, when attempting to determine the originality of either grade, the points to examine are essentially the same.

To begin the appraisal of a pilot's badge, scan the front and back. Feel the metal in your hand, and the weight of the piece. The prewar badges were usually plated brass or zinc and are heavy. If the badge has excessive wear you may be able to detect the base metal, often the chest of the eagle and the swasticka are points to examine for these traces. Brass as a base metal can be considered a good sign, but this should be considered a guage of quality not originality. Certainly many wartime pieces were minted of lower grade metal. However, because brass is hard and takes an exceptionally good strike the better manufacturers depended upon it before the wartime shortages, and these, naturally make the best investment.

The eagle is the next stop in the examination. Look at the wings and check the detail of the feathers. They should be of fine quality and well executed. Each feather should be easily descernable from its counterpart. The fetching on the chest should also reflect the intricate detailing of a master die engraver. The wreath of a quality badge is usually fairly thick. The leaf
decoration should rise above the surface of the wreath giving the leaves dimension. The inside of the wreath should be smooth and well finished. Often the inside of the back of the wreath is beveled and all sharp edges removed. This was done to the higher quality pieces as they were finished off, just before they were plated. Very few period pieces exist that are not well finished on the inside, only those that are late war and of poor quality are unfinished.

Turning to the back of the badge look at the rivits. On a good quality specimen these should be relatively small and well formed. Do make sure they are rivits and not the cut off heads of straight pins. It is not unheard of for the more unscrupulous dealer to re-work a good fake and use pin heads to simulate rivits. Even if the period badge has had to be repaired in this manner, be sure an adjustment in price is allowed.

Now the last critical test, the metal. Pot metal strikes apparently were produced toward the end of the war. However, there are some excellent pot metal copies circulating throughout the country. It is believed they originate from England. The novice collector should therefore avoid pot metal until he developes the skill to differentiate between the new and the old. One key to identifying the fake is the rivits. They are usually large and flat. Occasionally they protrude through the badge too far and come very close to the front surface, if not through. when this
happens, there is damage to the wings and the feathers reflect a distinct lack of detail looking almost as if they had been smashed by a hammer.

The hallmark is no longer a good measure of originality. Many of the good repros now come complete with a hall mark. A good example is the marking GNL. This is a period mark that is now counterfeited. The difference between the copies and the original pieces are twofold. First is the mark. The L in the period monogram is slightly bowed on the horizontal. This gives it the appearance of “rocking". The copies utilize the standard L. The second difference is more critical, especially where these pieces bear a different mark. Inspect the area between the eagle's legs. The tail feathers should be evident. If this area has been completely cut away so that the bird has no tail between his legs be very careful. The period GWL badges are also on the heavy side, while the copies are very light. Recently a pewter based pot metal copy has been appearing on the market. The workmanship is overall of a poor nature, even as far as the stamping. The piece examined bore the club mark but lacked the traditional BSW lettering. The swastika in the eagle's grasp was much too thin and its arms were uneven. These pieces become dangerous when reworked and silverplated by the unscrupulous dealer or collector.

A thesis could be written, complete with measurements and exacting photos, showing the difference between the copies and the copied. However, this is only an article, not a book. If one is judicious and demanding during his examination, and follows the guidelines presented here, there is no reason to be taken by the phonies currently available. In fact, it is more likely that good pieces of lower quality will be bypassed. Bear in mind these are general rules and there are definitely exceptions, but unless a vet actually hands you a piece that does not conform to these guides do not invest in it, it is probably a fake.

Dan McCauley, "Third Reich Regalia, Luftwaffe Flying Badges, Military Collectors Association Journal, Vol. II, No. I, c. 1968