Edged Weapons Maintenance and Storage

As we are all well aware, serious collectors of most items invest much time, effort and money in their area of interest. Often the pursuit of an item and the actual acquisition are considered the biggest challenges but this is just the beginning of a constant progression of problems that must be addressed in a timely manner in order to protect their investment.

With the investment of time and money, the collector must assume the responsibility to protect his investment as well as the preservation of the particular item for future collectors and historians. Nothing is more exasperating than to observe the deterioration of a higilly desirable piece or collection over a period of time due to lack of attention to preservation.

Rust or metal corrosion is the main culprit that me must overcome to insure the preservation of edged weapons. Rust forms on an iron containing metal surface under a common set of occurrences. The moisture content of the atmosphere, optimally at a percentage range above 65%, coupled with the presence of salts or acids on the metal surface leads to rust formation. Salts and acids are usually present due to touch contamination via the hand or are present in dust or dirt particles that are allowed to accumulate on the surface of the metal.

The best manner in which to retard rust formation is to eliminate the elements required by keeping the metal free of dust and salt contaminants and holding the humidity of the air below 60%. Attention to removing finger prints (a salt and acid containing contaminant) and storage in a closed display case to reduce dust and girt contamination should retard rust formation.

Attention to condition and the manner in which the item is stored is also necessary to preserve and edged weapons. A closed case can be both an advantage or a disadvantage unless certain steps are taken to insure optimal conditions. A silicon polish can be useful by forming a barrier to dust and dirt contaminates. However, the surface should be inspected periodically to insure that protection is maintained. The more often an item is examined, the more often it is necessary to re-coat (not repolish) the item with silicon polish. Humidity must be routinely checked in a closed area.

Storage in a closed area without some air exchange will allow humidity to reach an unacceptable level. Humidity should be monitored routinely and kept well within the acceptable limits. Any type of cloth material, especially a felt based will hold humidity, This is especially suspect if the natural unplated blade remains in direct contact for any long period of time.

Any closed and sealed area is not suitable for edged weapon storage. Sudden changes in temperature can lead to moisture accumulation by condensation. This cannot escape from a sealed area and will cause rust to form. Also paper or cardboard left in the storage area, a packing or wrapping material, will hold moisture at an unacceptable level. Newspaper is especially high in sulfur content and when coupled with moisture will form sulfuric acid which will attack the metal. This is why older newspapers yellow over a period of time. Coin dealers cite sulfur content as the reason coins darken when left in manila envelopes.

Location of the storage case also can be a problem, especially if the basement of a house or building is used. Humidity in these locations are usually higher than the acceptable level and monitoring is a must if this area is used. Also, a peg board can be used to allow full air exchange around the item with the most flexibility for display.

Items with leather present in the form of scabbards or hangers will require much more attention. The natural tanning salts in leather lead to problems over a period of time, so the removal of leather is optimal if at all possible. Storage of blades outside of the scabbard is very desirable in this situation.

If blades are displayed in the closed case to limit dirt and dust, storage of blades outside of the scabbard is advantageous, This allows for routine inspection, reduction of runner marks" and the preservation of leather contact where applicable.

Brass fittings are especially susceptible to leather problems, A green film forms with brass and nickel containing fittings when leather is in contact with the metal surface over a long period of time. This "green film", especially if remaining for several years, can actually attack the surface and leave a dull pitted area. I have noticed this periodically on M33 SS daggers with the vertical suspension device.

Blades can be routinely protected by silicon polish. Oil, even when lightly applied tends to hold moisture in contact with the surface causing rusting and darkening of the blade. Even Vaseline, often used as a protectant, under optimal condition is of some question for it's protective value. It is however, less of a darkening agent due to it's purity. Again; if this agent is used, routine inspection is required.

Blued or anodized scabbards can best be protected with a light coat of oil. These must be thoroughly cleaned prior to the application as a routine safeguard. Again, the removal of leather hangers is a must for long term storage, Often very light rust can be easily removed with triple ought steel wool prior to oil application without any damage to the scabbard. A light pressure is required and no buffing can be tolerated.

Leather scabbards can be best preserved by the application of polish after a good cleaning. Leather scabbards with a metal liner can also be polished and the seams can be re-sealed prior to polishing if required. Elmer's glue appears to be an excellent agent for sealing and any excess can be removed wi th a damp clean terry cloth prior to polishing. An excellent brand of polish that is available in various shades is Meltonian from Great Britian.

Silver anti-tarnish cloth makes an ideal container for daggers and the storage of daggers outside their scabbards in a bank's safe deposit box can be a very safe method, I have stored my Himmler SS presentation dagger in this type of bag for over four years with no noticeable change from the choice mint condition the dagger was in when obtained from the veteran. Also, I have monitored the humidity in the bank and have found it to be below 60% the year around, A humidity gauge left in the bank box and checked weekly for a few months should be your best guide.

Improper handling and storage can leave telltale marks on an edged weapon. One only has to observe an SA or SS dagger with darkened finger print stains to see what poor attention and storage can do to a prime collectible, Although these can be modified with polishing, they will never be remove totally unless the entire blade is repolished which is abhorrent to the true collector. The collector must preserve and maintain the items in his care.

Ron Weinand, EDGED WEAPON'S MAINTENANCE AND STORAGE, Der Gauleiter, 1989