Friday, June 8, 2007

Buckles and their Manufacture


The manufacture of the Koppelschloss, or belt buckle is a simple process. So simple in fact, that many of the companies certified by the RZM were family or one-man or­ganizations. Many companies had the master dies cut by a larger concern, thus eliminating the need for the most expensive labor and equipment. Because of the availability of government (RZM) contracts to small companies, financial aid was more accessable than any time before.

Buckles during the period in question were stamped from a number of stocks or metals. The most common was brass, an alloy of copper and tin. This popularity was due to its low price and its similarity in color to gold. The stock was usually c.2.5mm thick, although some thicker var­ieties were used in the 1919-1933 period. A metal which first came into use for buckles after 1933 was an alloy of aluminum. The color of this alloy varies from silver-white to grey depending upon the amount of base metal added. In the case of alloys approved by the RZM, the purer white is prevalent. The most attractive metal, used almost always for leader's buckles was nickel-silver. The name is mislead­ing since the alloy contains nickel, zinc, and copper. This alloy takes a high polish and looks very much like silver. Iron was used (not steel) for many buckles which were to be plated or painted. The last of the metals was a base alloy called pot metal. It is made of some copper and much lead, and was used in buckles which were cast or injection molded.

The metal was cut into sheets of the proper size and placed in a die. These dies consisted of one into which the design had been engraved, and one upon which the design was cut in relief, or standing out. The lat­ter die pushed the metal into the incised areas of the engraved die, thus the finished buckle has a raised re­lief on the outside and a reversed (mirror image) on the inside. Naturally the quality and age of the dies have considerable effect on the strike or image on the finish­ed product. Like coins, some buckles are weak or indis­tinct due to die deficiencies. These are seldom worthy of the collector's attention.

A few buckles approved by the RZM late in the war were injection molded using pot metal. They are easily recognized by their slate grey color. Usually these were spray painted with silver paint. They will not lighten in color if cleaned or polished, but rather acquire a dull gloss. They are also discernable by their flat reverse side, on which no image of the design appears. Usually four circular areas will show where the hot metal entered the die. Their intrest lies not in their quality, but in their post 1942 production. The commonest pot metal buckles found are the Hitler Jugend, the Hitler Jugend Leader, and the Politische Leiter 60mm.

Four types of catches were used on the rectangular (enlisted type) buckle. Type I is used only in conjunction with a soldered inset. It is simply a depressed slot in the metal. Type II is the commonest, and is a ([) shaped bar secured to the reverse of the buckle by brazing,or in the case of Type IIa, by spotwelding. Type III is found on aluminum and pot metal buckles, and is a protuberance in the metal with a slot drilled for the catch. Type IV is not often encountered. It is a notched bar which fits into two holes in the sides of the buckle. Although it appears to be a 'home made' variety, some RZM proofed DAF buckles are seen with this catch. They are usually made by C. Th. Dicke Co. (M4/22). It is surprising the RZM would have approved such a departure from the norm.

The post and prongs used to attach the buckle to the belt are by their nature highly standardized. Only two varieties exist. The earlier type chronologically is more difficult to produce, and was discontinued around 1930. The prongs are a single piece of metal brazed to a tube, through which the bar passes. The other type attaches the prongs, once again a single piece of metal, to the bar by means of a loose fitting mechanism of pre-formed sheet stock. This type of construction was introduced c.19l6 to aid in mass production. The transition was not rapid, however, many SA buckles manufactured during the late 20's used the earlier style of construction. This is one positive way to identify earlier pieces. The latest use of the brazed prong mechanism was on round leader's buckles made of nickel silver
alloy c.1936. It was last used on rectangular buckles in the late 20's or very early 30's.

The attachment of insets to buckles follows a similar genesis. Very early c.1871 buckles have insets soldered to the buckle through four holes. By the time of the First World War, the number of holes had decreased to two. SA buckles with silver insets are attached in this way. The attach­ment of insets with solder declined with the advent of the aluminum alloy buckle. Many companies in addition to solid stamped aluminum buckles offered at a lower price buckles with paper-thin insets attached by tabs. These tabs were a part of the inset and passed through slots in the buckle to be bradded or simply bent over. No buckle approved by the RZM was manufactured in this way. The difference in the wholesale price was often as little as 15pf (US 4ยข), and why anyone would have been tempted to forego quality for such an amount escapes the modern observer. Buckles of the Luftwaffe and the Reichsheer are frequently of this type. As a method of manufacture, this lends itself particularly well to mass production, since all buckle blanks could be made the same. The late Type III Reichs Luftschutz Bund buckle was produced this way exclusively.

Round leader's buckles fall into three major manufac­ture varieties. The first type encompasses the period 1870 to 1945. Type I buckles are stamped or cast and the catch and prong-bar keeper added by brazing. This method is not particularly well suited for mass production, but is seen in very late pieces nevertheless. The second and most prevalent type was manufactured in two parts. The face of the buckle was stamped with a wide flange around the outer edge. This flange was crimped around a perforated disc which served as the catch and as a keeper for the prong-bar. The third method was used with pot metal. The catch and keeper was fitted into a depression on the flat reverse of the buckle and attached by solder. All three methods were approved by the RZM at one time or another. Types I and III are the favorites of reproducers since they require less sophisticated equipment.

Officer's buckles exist without prongs on either side of the buckle. They are designed for use on brocade belts. The right hand side of the catch (the removable side) is sewn onto the belt. The buckle is attached to the other side by means of a loop in the belt. This loop terminates in a hook which can be secured to several grommets on the inside of the belt, thus making it adjustable.Frequent examples of this are Reichsheer, Luftwaffe, and RLB buckles.
It was not a method approved by the RZM.

All officer's belts, both leather and brocade, were fitted with two runners, one slightly larger than the other. Since these fittings are loose on the belt, they frequently are missing. All leader's belts approved by the RZM were marked L5/.The first two numbers are the manufacturer code, the second, the year of manufacture. Other markings found on belts are 'KERNSTUCK', '90', and '95-115'. The first is indicitive of high quality leather. The second and third are belt sizes, and may range from 75(cm) to 115. They are often noted from the smallest to the largest possible adjust-
ment, e.g., 95-115.

There are a multitude of finishes found on buckles. In the order of their quality, they are gold plating, silver plating, nickel plating, silver or gold wash, silver paint, and various enamel painted finishes. There was too much variation among companies to pin point anything about this.

Thomas Reid and John Nauer:"German Belt Buckles 1919-1945", The Montrose Press, 1974

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